Not Starting

[Topman]

Checked the listing where I purchased the float bowl gaskets, they were good with the choke vent hole, so I don't have to worry about that. After leaving the cylinders open all night for ventilation, I put the plugs back in and choked it, tried to start it with no throttle (thanks Steve) and still nothing.

Any word on how to judge the strength of a spark? They're definitely all blue, just not sure how strong or weak they are..

I guess today I'll just plan to fix the stripped oil pan with the +1 I found, and start removing the wiring harness to clean/examine, unless of course anyone else chimes in with some helpful info.

Thanks again everyone.

[tom203]

Man, this thing is stubborn! Last night with carb bar propped open with screwdriver, you said it seemed to get closer. Can you remove air cleaner element and block openning with tupperware cover or similiar, wedge screwdriver again, no throttle and crank it? unless the plugs look wet, I'm still fixated on not enough gas to wake this thing up.

[dueller]

Although it is common to use different "choke" positions, there should only be ONE throttle position used when starting an engine, especially if you are using the "choke", too.

DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE.

The "choke" (actually an "enrichener" system) uses the high vacuum caused by the closed throttle to draw fuel and air through different jets to provide the richer mixture for cold starting. Opening the throttle AT ALL will defeat that system.

.

I only mentioned different throttle positions in the event that it might be loaded up with fuel. Was thinking that if he had it at WOT and trying to start with no choke that might get enough air in the cylinder to counteract the amount of fuel in the cylinder.

[Topman]

OK! New development... I was working on her all day, doing this and that. Got the +1 plug in, finally think she's done leaking oil on me. Filled her with some Rotella T 15w-40, read it was a good alternative to spending a fortune on 'motorcycle' oil. Got some more clear tubing of the right size so I can run the vacuum line even with the tank off. Pulled the fuel that was built up in the float bowls, just for the hell of it. Still had the air filter membrane covered with an oily towel as Tom suggested. Gave another thing I'd heard a go, to see if there was a fuel problem. Pulled the plugs, cleaned em, and put a small amount (or as small amount as you can put with a turkey baster ) of fuel directly into the cylinder. Had the tank propped up next to her on an elevation with the fuel line and vacuum lines hooked up. Cranked her, and... she fired up! At first I was so in shock I was wasn't even freaking out that she was revving at 7k, then I started to freak out like something was wrong , shut her off, took a look, cranked her again. Same thing, 7k! Oh duh, the choke is on full bore! . So that's off, lowered the idle, and she was running just fine.

So now the thoughts... I measured how much fuel I had taken out of the float bowl (picture, sorry I didn't have a more accurate measuring device), thinking maybe I'd set the float height too low. I don't know. But I've read that you do the fuel directly into the cylinder trick and that generally it will start up (for any length of time) and just die, meaning you have a fuel feed problem. Well, mine was running for a while, and with the clear tubing attached, I could see that the fuel line was feeding meaning also that the vacuum line is working. So I'm not sure what could have messed with the ignition process.

Another thing, I replaced both the exhaust gaskets as well as the "muffler connectors" (Part #7 in the fiche) and noticed while she was running there was clearly exhaust leaking from somewhere. I got down as close as I could and it appeared it was coming from the crossover section. I cleaned that part as thoroughly as you can clean a 30 year old rust riddled exhaust section and hadn't noticed any holes, given it's very likely that it's escaping from a hairline crack, is it possible to seal said crossover section with some sort of spray on or paint on sealant, rather than having to hunt for a new one?

Thanks for all your help and support everyone!

[tom203]

Hooray, it just needed to be convinced you were serious about running it.Depending on location of exhaust leak, you might be able to wrap it with tin can material and secure with SS hose clamp.

[Topman]

So went out today, with my fingers crossed. Without choke, or dropping fuel in the cylinders, cranked and... soo close! Choke... almost! All down hill from there, less and less each time. Rested a bit, thought on it. Covered the air filter element with the greasy towel again. Bam! Fired to the choke on the first try. So.. Figure I need to oil the filter element more, which I did, it's now drying, I'll let you know how it goes.

Now I'm trying to figure out the jumping tach needle. Can't rightly synch the carbs if I can't tell what RPM I'm at...

[dueller]

So went out today, with my fingers crossed. Without choke, or dropping fuel in the cylinders, cranked and... soo close! Choke... almost! All down hill from there, less and less each time. Rested a bit, thought on it. Covered the air filter element with the greasy towel again. Bam! Fired to the choke on the first try. So.. Figure I need to oil the filter element more, which I did, it's now drying, I'll let you know how it goes.

Now I'm trying to figure out the jumping tach needle. Can't rightly synch the carbs if I can't tell what RPM I'm at...

Could still sync. Drop the idle as low as you can without it stalling and go up a little more to keep it running. Will probably be better than nothing. Does that have a cable or is it electronic tach? Don't know myself.

[Topman]

That's true. I plan on doing it soon. Turns out oiling the filter more made all the difference, seems to start up whenever I crank it now. I am however having an issue with the clutch, which I started a new thread on, and haven't had much luck with and that's keeping me from focusing on the tach. The tach is a cable though, I tried greasing it and lubricating the mechanism. Cable is in good condition, so next I guess I'll have to try and take apart the mechanism and thoroughly clean it.