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    Torque Wrench

    I think it's time I get one. any recommendations

    #2
    Yes. Get one.


    Don't trust the bottom 10-15% or the top 10-15% of its range.

    .
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      #3
      I have a craftsman beam type. Almost never use it. The clickers cost a lot (for a good one)
      NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

      Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
      Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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        #4
        Beam is fine. Then never need calibration. Don't believe the people that say they suck.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          Harbor Freight has a digi for $80. We bought it for redoing the head on a Case dozer. Worked great as long it doesnt get used as a breaker bar. Silly 3rd worlders.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            Beam is fine. Then never need calibration. Don't believe the people that say they suck.
            The beam type suck.

            They are only good for the people that are TOO CHEAP to buy a REAL torque wrench.
            Besides, how are you checking the beam type? Are you looking STRAIGHT down on it?
            Can you keep it from moving while reading it?
            Try using one for a 1/4" bolt.

            Daniel

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              #7
              IMHO, dials are best. Digitals too.
              Beams are good but can be bent, then the calibration is gone.
              Clickers are cheap, which is why most use them. But you must be careful to set it back to zero before putting it away. And you must use judgement with them, sometimes they don't click when they should. If it feels like too much, you are most likely correct.

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                #8
                I've got 3 Snap-On clickers, a 1/2" 250 ft/lb, a 3/8" 75 ft/lb, and a 3/8" 200 in/lb. Shopping for a 1/4" in/lb'er now. Don't use the 250 for much besides the rear axle nut on the HD, (100 lbs), but it's there if I need it. Got great deals on eBay and the SO guy can fix them if they ever break. I'll take care of them and pass them to my kids someday. The cheap stuff is disposable. I don't mind paying a little more for top quality that will last a lifetime.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
                  IMHO, dials are best. Digitals too.
                  Beams are good but can be bent, then the calibration is gone.
                  Clickers are cheap, which is why most use them. But you must be careful to set it back to zero before putting it away. And you must use judgement with them, sometimes they don't click when they should. If it feels like too much, you are most likely correct.
                  So why use a clicker or a torque wrench anyway? I have never had any problems with the beam type. Hasn't bent, and if it did, I would know by how much and could allow for it. No calibration needed. You never can get really accurate torque on bolts anyway due to thread and head friction.
                  NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

                  Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
                  Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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