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Torque Wrench
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Yes. Get one.
Don't trust the bottom 10-15% or the top 10-15% of its range.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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I have a craftsman beam type. Almost never use it. The clickers cost a lot (for a good one)NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS
Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35694
- Torrance, CA
Beam is fine. Then never need calibration. Don't believe the people that say they suck.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Hammered
Harbor Freight has a digi for $80. We bought it for redoing the head on a Case dozer. Worked great as long it doesnt get used as a breaker bar. Silly 3rd worlders.
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7981GS
Originally posted by Nessism View PostBeam is fine. Then never need calibration. Don't believe the people that say they suck.
They are only good for the people that are TOO CHEAP to buy a REAL torque wrench.
Besides, how are you checking the beam type? Are you looking STRAIGHT down on it?
Can you keep it from moving while reading it?
Try using one for a 1/4" bolt.
Daniel
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koolaid_kid
IMHO, dials are best. Digitals too.
Beams are good but can be bent, then the calibration is gone.
Clickers are cheap, which is why most use them. But you must be careful to set it back to zero before putting it away. And you must use judgement with them, sometimes they don't click when they should. If it feels like too much, you are most likely correct.
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FLHGSRay
I've got 3 Snap-On clickers, a 1/2" 250 ft/lb, a 3/8" 75 ft/lb, and a 3/8" 200 in/lb. Shopping for a 1/4" in/lb'er now. Don't use the 250 for much besides the rear axle nut on the HD, (100 lbs), but it's there if I need it. Got great deals on eBay and the SO guy can fix them if they ever break. I'll take care of them and pass them to my kids someday. The cheap stuff is disposable. I don't mind paying a little more for top quality that will last a lifetime.
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Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostIMHO, dials are best. Digitals too.
Beams are good but can be bent, then the calibration is gone.
Clickers are cheap, which is why most use them. But you must be careful to set it back to zero before putting it away. And you must use judgement with them, sometimes they don't click when they should. If it feels like too much, you are most likely correct.NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS
Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R
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