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How bad can a valve clearance be and still live?

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    #31
    I had a #2 cyl that was cold and it was because the float was sticking up. I had a quick bench test done (bowls removed) and the guy showed me that the float did not always spring back "down" after being pressed/tapped "up"... shutting off the gas. He told me how to tweek it and it warms right up now.

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      #32
      Does it still have points type?If so change the condensor on 1-4 point set.Ask me how I know> !
      Last edited by Guest; 09-17-2011, 03:55 PM.

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        #33
        Still has points. Brand new points and condensers from Z1, gapped and ignition timing set via timing light. Spot on.

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          #34
          Epilogue:

          My homemade manometer didn't work, wasn't tall enough, so i just played it blind and fiddled with the sync screws blind. It runs SIGNIFICANTLY better now. It's just amazing how big a difference. I've still got a ways to go, but it's much much better. very crisp and idles about 1200. Hangs up a tiny bit on a big rev, but will eventually come down. My carb clamps are full closed, do those stretch? Do I still have a bit of leaking air with it hanging a touch? Or could it be the slides being slow?

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            #35
            If you've gotten the wrong clamps they'll close all the way without being tight. Maybe you got some for a later model head with CV carbs (bigger diameter) maybe you've got airbox side clamps on it. Try to find the correct ones. They should tighten up before being clamped all the way. Also I saw you did the usual, did you replace the intake boot Orings? What are your fuel and air screws set at? Sounds a bit lean still..the VM carbs will dry up for whatever reason faster than the CV carbs I've found (maybe the overflow vent?) and it's common for a float to hang shut...a tap on the bowl or two with a heavy-ish handled screwdriver usually frees it up.
            With a KN in box filter you may find it needs the screws set a bit richer (or the air screw alone backed off a bit).

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              #36
              Yes, I replaced the orings too. everything really. It's got CV's on it, so i've only got a mixture screw. I started at 3.5 turns out, and it was popping. I've got them out about 4 turns now. Might need a touch more. Screws look pretty far out though. I really don't like the mikuni floats setup though. Leaky, my funnel will run dry after I shut it off. I have to run the engine out of gas almost so it won't flood over time.

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