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    Bouncy Tachometer;

    On the 1980 1100 E - What would be the reason for the bouncy tachometer...?

    Is there some internal problem to the tachometer itself?

    Is it the cable? Lube? Replace? Available.
    Last edited by Guest; 09-28-2011, 10:12 AM.

    #2
    Most likely an unlubed, worn or too-tightly bent cable, but it could also be an internal problem with the tach.

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      #3
      Lube that bad boy, both down the cable and up into the tach gauge...

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        #4
        My '82 GS1100E tach didn't bounce but the needle did. What cured mine was adjusting the carbs where it idled smoother. Until it smoothed out like it did, I just thought they all bounced.
        sigpic
        Steve
        "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
        _________________
        '79 GS1000EN
        '82 GS1100EZ

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          #5
          Bouncy Tach Needle

          If it turns out to NOT be the cable, it's a pretty easy chore to clean the internals on the blockhead bike's gauge pods. I had this issue on my 1981 750E which has a similar pod to yours. These units are "eddy current" devices having a magnet, spun by the cable, inside an aluminum "speedcup" which is connected to a calibrated coil spring that turns the needle. When I opened mine up, there was a "residue" between the magnet and the speedcup that was causing friction between the two (bad). Cleaned that gunk out and all was good.

          Having this issue on my T model too but not looking forward to opening that one up.
          sigpic
          1981 Suzuki GS750E (one owner), 1982 Suzuki GS750T (my "tinker" toy), Previous (First) Bike: 1979 GS425 (long gone)
          2002 Suzuki Bandit 1200S (new to me in 11/2011)

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            #6
            Hi,

            Originally posted by 81ZUKI75 View Post
            If it turns out to NOT be the cable, it's a pretty easy chore to clean the internals on the blockhead bike's gauge pods. I had this issue on my 1981 750E which has a similar pod to yours. These units are "eddy current" devices having a magnet, spun by the cable, inside an aluminum "speedcup" which is connected to a calibrated coil spring that turns the needle. When I opened mine up, there was a "residue" between the magnet and the speedcup that was causing friction between the two (bad). Cleaned that gunk out and all was good.
            An excellent description! Here's a picture of my busted gauge:



            On my bike the speedo and tach use the same mechanical principle. After removing the gauge from the cluster, you can gently pry off the bezel using a small flat screwdriver and a good pair of needle nose pliers.



            After it's all cleaned up and lubed, use a small punch and hammer to carefully bend the bezel back in place.

            There's also a guide that shows you how to saw your gauges in half, then glue them back together. It's in the "Garage" section off the homepage. Here's the direct link: How to get inside your gauges

            Thank you for your indulgence,

            BassCliff
            Last edited by Guest; 09-29-2011, 05:32 PM.

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              #7
              Thanks guys!

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