GS450 Leak at Tach cable (missing a piece?)

[System9]

This is my 1st GS, so I don't have the luxury of looking at at a piece and realizing how messed up it really is. But, someone tried using a piece of coat hanger to hold the tach cable into the engine? There is an oil leak there as well, I took a picture, and before I try to repair it, i want to know from expert eyes if there is a washer or anything missing? My tach isnt working, but if I remove the cable from the tachometer, it does spin, so i'm not sure what thats all about either, but I definitely need to properly fix this rigged cable at the engine, and stop the leak.

[pete]

Looks like you're missing parts #24 and #25 to hold it in place, and you'll probably find #22 and/or #23 are the source of your leak:

[System9]

So i can assume thats a broken screw filling the smaller hole in my photo?

[System9]

I've been weighing my options after having an unsuccessful go at removing the snapped off screw. Would there be any adverse affects on the engine if I ran with no tach at all? Reason i'm asking is the end of the tach cable (where it enters the engine) has a pretty heavy duty gear on it, does not implementing that gear do anything weird to the engine?

[koolaid_kid]

You need to extract that screw. There are members here who have done it, most use a left-handed drill bit. Once you extract it, just replace the screw and the clamp. While you are at it, replace parts 22 and 23. This will stop the leak and you will have your tach back for a minimum of cost. Don't delete an important instrument just because the PO was an idiot and did not repair his mistake.

[pete]

I'm with Koolaid Kid as far as repairing it goes and I'd definitely do that myself.

However it won't do any damage or anything not to have it connected. The only thing to be careful of is ensuring it's not jammed at any point as that could bugger up your exhaust camshaft which is what runs the tacho. gear.

[System9]

I work next door to a metal shop, I wall see if they have a reverse drill bit I can borrow. In order to get a straight shot at the screw, It looks like i need to remove my forks.
Pete- You showed me a nice diagram of parts from Alpha-sports, would you recommend I purchase the replacement parts from there as well?

[pete]

I work next door to a metal shop, I wall see if they have a reverse drill bit I can borrow. In order to get a straight shot at the screw, It looks like i need to remove my forks.
Pete- You showed me a nice diagram of parts from Alpha-sports, would you recommend I purchase the replacement parts from there as well?

Turning the forks full left should give you the clearance you need I think, I don't think you'll have to go as far as removing them but I may be wrong.

Alpha Sports have the best parts fiche for reference, but I actually get my parts from Boulevard Suzuki in Florida. Alpha Sports seem to be the most expensive for OEM parts, whereas Boulevard seem to be the cheapest. Shipping costs are very reasonable and I normally get my orders in 2 to 2 1/2 weeks over here in Australia, not sure how quick they are within the US.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Just FYI, have a look here:

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/tachcableseals.html

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[System9]

Hi,

Just FYI, have a look here:

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/tachcableseals.html

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

That is a very helpful link, Thank you so much, this is a great forum by the way.
I just realized from that link that my tach cable fitting was never pushed all the way in. I wasnt sure if it was supposed to stop at the seal, or if the seal itself went in. I didnt want to force it too much, but it seems it takes some muscle to get it in all the way. When i bought the bike it was sticking out somewhat, like where it is now, with a coat hanger holding it in up to the seal, so I'm guessing the PO didnt know it went in further.

I talked to the metal shop guy today, and asked about left handed drill bits. He had alot to say, they build custom bike frames, and used to race old Bultaco motorcycles. He said although it can be done, that its not his favorite idea, since drill bits can get squirmy and do damage. His preferred way is actually using a tig welder to attach a small amount of tig to the screw, letting it cool and coming back periodically and building up more tig until there is a decent amount sticking out, at which point he uses pliers. He said it works especially well, because each time he adds tig, it gets the screw really hot, then it cools, and this heating and cooling process expands and contracts the screw and breaks it free internally.

[koolaid_kid]

That is an excellent way to do it. Most members don't have a tig welder, however. If he will do that for you then I would go for it.

[pete]

Yeah do it! I've heard of that technique before and it seems to work well going by reports. I don't have a tig welder either so haven't tried it for myself, but I'd definitely get him to give it a go. It's also definitely much safer than the left handed drill or easy out.