Cam Cover screws

[Guest]

I have ordered an OEM valve cover gasket for my 1982 GS750E (16v) and am preparing to do my very first valve adjustment. I read the tutorial on BassCliff's site and the Clymer manual.

The Clymer manual says to remove 4 Phillips head screws from each end of the cam cover (figure 69) pp. 36-37. It mentions in a note that these screws are fitted with a special gasket and these need to be replaced each time the screws are removed. The tutorial on BassCliff's site doesn't mention this.

I am trying to order everything up front so I can get the job done in one block of time.

1. Is it necessary to replace those gaskets on the cam screws?

2. Also, don't know what a half moon is (yet) but I gather from other threads I don't need to replace these. Am I correct?

[Steve]

1. I have adjusted valves on MANY bikes and have never seen any "gasket" behind the screws.
A drop of blue Loc-Tite, maybe, but no gasket.

2. You will see the "half moons" as soon as you remove the cam covers. If they are not leaking (and you don't bump them loose),
you might not have to replace them, but if you are placing an order, go ahead and get them.
New ones are soooo much nicer.

.

[winfield]

I already ordered the gasket. The "half moons" would be a second order.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

As far as I know, the 16v motors don't have "half moons". Is this your valve cover area?




What cam screw gaskets? I don't understand what you're referring to. The only gaskets are the valve cover gasket (#2) and the breather gasket (#11). There are a couple of seals on the tach cable send unit, but you don't have to change those every time.

Are you reading the right valve adjustment tutorial?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[7981GS]

Cliff, look at the cylinder head.



I believe that they are longer than the ones on the 2-valve engines.
I have been meaning to check as I am about to build an 1100ED engine and only have 2-valve moons in stock.

Daniel

[BassCliff]

Thanks Daniel. That was my brain fart.



I see #13, #19, and #26 are listed "gaskets". Mr. winfield, are you speaking of #13? The half moons are, of course, #27. Does your Clymer's mention part numbers? There's a factory manual on my little website which, along with the online parts fiches, should be close enough.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[koolaid_kid]

That looks very similar to my 1100E. I have removed the valve cover multiple times to adjust the valves and replace faulty aftermarket gaskets. I have never removed the end caps (they are just decoration on a 16 valve) nor have I needed to replace the half moons. It sounds like your Clymers manual is talking about an 8 valve motor, which is different.

[Hoosier Daddy]

My '80 GS750 16v TSCC does indeed have the sealing washers mentioned under the four phillips screws in the valve cover you are asking about. I can see why the manual says to replace them, they are a steel ring with a rubber center and would seal against leakage. The first exploded diagram BassCliff posted they are #6. they are under the screw #5. two on each end of the valve cover.
Not to be confused with the eight phillips screws that hold the four trim pieces on. Now under those trim pieces there are half moons as well, they are #27 in the 3rd diagram as mentioned.

[winfield]

My '80 GS750 16v TSCC does indeed have the sealing washers mentioned under the four phillips screws in the valve cover you are asking about. I can see why the manual says to replace them, they are a steel ring with a rubber center and would seal against leakage. The first exploded diagram BassCliff posted they are #6. they are under the screw #5. two on each end of the valve cover.
Not to be confused with the eight phillips screws that hold the four trim pieces on. Now under those trim pieces there are half moons as well, they are #27 in the 3rd diagram as mentioned.

Hoosier Daddy is right. The little washer-gaskets in question are #6 in BassCliff's Figure 1. The screws are the #5 and appear to be necessary to remove so that the valve cover will come off. Which means the little washer-gaskets will need replaced. And there are half moons under the end caps.

It just seems funny that no one mentions having to replace these, either in the tutorial or in any of the threads that I've read. I didn't order any of these parts (washers or half moons). I am trying to get the work done this week while I am on vacation and am trying to avoid unnecessary delays.

If nobody else replaces these items and doesn't have leakage then I'll proceed and not worry about it. I just don't want to have to redo my work if there is a leak because I've taken a shortcut. Thinking about it now and noting the location of the screws, removing them after the fact will probably not cause the valve cover gasket to leak.

BTW, I am using Mr. Basic's tutorial for 16 valve engines and Clymer manual M370 and looking at the section on TSCC 16 valve engines (p. 36).

Hoosier Daddy (or anyone else with a 16v engine): Have you had the valve cover off your 1980 TSCC engine? Was it necessary to remove the screws in question? If so, did you replace the washer-gaskets?

Thanks for the replies, guys. I always find the responses helpful and prompt. Basic's tutorial is also superb. It's just that as I try to gather data to do something I notice little details that aren't addressed. Since I am inexperienced, I don't have the backgroud to judge what is important to attend to and what I can ignore.

[5azzmonkey]

Hoosier Daddy is right. The little washer-gaskets in question are #6 in BassCliff's Figure 1. The screws are the #5 and appear to be necessary to remove so that the valve cover will come off. Which means the little washer-gaskets will need replaced. And there are half moons under the end caps.

It just seems funny that no one mentions having to replace these, either in the tutorial or in any of the threads that I've read. I didn't order any of these parts (washers or half moons). I am trying to get the work done this week while I am on vacation and am trying to avoid unnecessary delays.

If nobody else replaces these items and doesn't have leakage then I'll proceed and not worry about it. I just don't want to have to redo my work if there is a leak because I've taken a shortcut. Thinking about it now and noting the location of the screws, removing them after the fact will probably not cause the valve cover gasket to leak.

BTW, I am using Mr. Basic's tutorial for 16 valve engines and Clymer manual M370 and looking at the section on TSCC 16 valve engines (p. 36).

Hoosier Daddy (or anyone else with a 16v engine): Have you had the valve cover off your 1980 TSCC engine? Was it necessary to remove the screws in question? If so, did you replace the washer-gaskets?

Thanks for the replies, guys. I always find the responses helpful and prompt. Basic's tutorial is also superb. It's just that as I try to gather data to do something I notice little details that aren't addressed. Since I am inexperienced, I don't have the backgroud to judge what is important to attend to and what I can ignore.

I replaced my washer gaskets when I did mine, they are cheap so why not!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Hoosier Daddy (or anyone else with a 16v engine): Have you had the valve cover off your 1980 TSCC engine? Was it necessary to remove the screws in question? If so, did you replace the washer-gaskets?

Yes it is nesessary to remove screws #5 to remove the valve cover.
When I removed mine the sealing washer came with the screw and it would not fall off past the threads once the screw was removed so I didn't force it.
I did check the rubber seal for cracks / tears and it looked fine so I re-installed the screws without replaceing them.
* I am still in the build and have NOT ran my engine yet. So I can not tell you if that was a good decision or not.
However, I do not think there should be oil PRESSURE at that location, and being at the top it is unlikely if they do not seal that much oil if any would leak from there... I hope.
Regaurdless, since these are on the outboard end on the top of the valve cover, you would be able to replace the seals later with little or no trouble.

[winfield]

I replaced my washer gaskets when I did mine, they are cheap so why not!

Because they will arrive 3-5 days after the valve cover gasket which was already ordered, and after my vacation is over. I'd like to complete the work before vacation is over.

Next stop is to the dealer to see if they have half moons and gasket-washers. I'm not holding my breath since they didn't have the gasket.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Well I'm glad Mr. Hoosier Daddy cleared that up.

As long as my half moons aren't leaking, I tend to leave them there through 3 or 4 valve adjustment procedures. With the miles I ride, I tend to do at least 2 valve adjustment checks a year.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[5azzmonkey]

Because they will arrive 3-5 days after the valve cover gasket which was already ordered, and after my vacation is over. I'd like to complete the work before vacation is over.

Next stop is to the dealer to see if they have half moons and gasket-washers. I'm not holding my breath since they didn't have the gasket.

I'd order them and have them on hand anyway. If they leak you can easily change them out afterward as they are on the outside of the cam cover.

-Dave

[gearhead13]

I use threebond on my half moons and they dont come out anymore or leak either. The phillips screws do have some sort of sealer washer on them, my phillips heads got messed up, so I replaced them with allen heads with regular washers and havent noticed any leaks. They screw into the top of four of the head bolts.
Valve cover gaskets cost $50+ here from the dealer, so I reuse mine.