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Still confused about oil viscosity

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    #16
    Rotella has long been a favorite of mine also. We did a bunch of oil analysis with KLR650's and Rotella. Great stuff and priced right.

    When I moved to the ST1100, I though it could well last me for the remainder of my riding career but it looks like Suzie could also. Lovely old thing for which I'm feeling greater affection during every ride. The ST is a completely different machine and simply cannot be challenged in covering long distances in minimum time but the GS is every so enjoyable for just puttering around locally. Now that she has bar heaters, we will see how the colder weather works out.

    WhiSTler is only confined to the garage by ice and snow although fresh snow is a real "hoot" as it gives the traction control fits in trying to keep the rear wheel from spinning. One large fear is that of trying to stand that heavy machine back up if conditions are at all slippery. Gosh, maybe I'm becoming sensible in my old age?..... Nah!

    Norm

    Originally posted by 1948man View Post
    Thanks Norm. With your knowledge and your 2 valve 850's forgiving design, your GS should run forever. I've got a couple of gallon jugs of Rotella 5w-40 calling me.

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      #17
      I noticed Norms comments on cold weather oil applications. What does a 4 stroke sno-mobile use for oil when its....say like -50f ? They must have block or oil pre-heaters
      82 1100 EZ (red)

      "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

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        #18
        I will stop by the local Yamaha dealer and talk with the shop owner. I've known him for 10 years and found him to be very knowledgeable and 100% reliable as an information source. The fact that he's old and cranky simply provides us a common basis for communication. Doubt you're reading this Gord but couldn't resist.

        The listings I have seen show 0W-40 oils as recommended for Yamaha so it would seem most likely that this is the broad spectrum choice. We ran 0W-40 in the North and tested several test bed engines with a range of oils.

        Another disclaimer as I'm new here and sometimes communication provides the wrong tone: I have over 50 years of professional experience in the mechanical trades and, since I grew up in a small country town, was taught that knowlege is to be shared. If I make an observation or recommendation, it is in the spirit of service and the conviction that it is paying forward for when I need help.

        Here's a homework assignment: go out to the garage and grab some bottles of oil off your shelf. If you have a straight SAE 30, 20, 10 & some multi-grades so much the better but if not, buy some oils of different ranges. A 10W-30, 5W-30 & 0W-30 plus an SAE30 oil will be useful as a basis for a very revealing series of experiments. Ideally, non synthetic oils will be the best test but if you are mixing them, keep in mind that this will change effects.

        When the oils have been sitting at room temperature for 20 hours, try pouring a small amount from each container and note the relative ease of pouring. If the lids for the oil bottles are the same size and you have an extra few, try putting a small hole in one or more lids and compare the rate of flow from each hole when the bottle is inverted. Try squeazing the bottles to compare flow.

        Next, put the oils into the freezer (better deep freezer than the one on the side of the fridge but use what you have) for a day, but less than 24 hours and try the pour rates. Not much trouble telling a 30W or 10W-30 from the 0W-30, is there? Simply shaking the bottles to note the sloshing effect can be quite revealing!

        Next, leave the oils in the freezer for three days and then repeat. Notice that, for dino-based oils, the oils become thicker after a couple of days
        than they were after 12 hours or so. This was something I had to test despite learning that oil structure changes over time when left in cold conditions.

        If you have time, compare other oils.

        Next, warm the oils in a pan of water (all cautions in effect) to just below the water boiling point but be cautious to ensure that you have tested an oil bottle in the water to make sure it survives. Obviously the lids will need to be loosened! Try pouring and compare flow rates. Quite noticeable!

        Keeping in mind that this is not comprehensive testing, has your perspective changed? How much lubrication flow will be provided by the heavy (thick) oils under cold conditions?

        Did you notice that the 30W oil is thicker when hot than the 10W-30? If you managed to test a 10W, you will notice that the 10W-30 is thicker than the 10W when they are cold. It almost required twisting the arm of a petroleum engineer acquaintence for him to confirm that my theory was correct. Can you figure the reason?

        When the rubber hits the road, we find two groups of people posting information. One group has read the information and repeats it, often with great conviction, while the other group have real experience with the subject manner. While both are to be suspect........I tend to listen more to those who have actually tried to walk across the bull's pasture.

        One bit of reality is that learning requires effort.

        Let's hear some feed-back on the experiments.

        Norm

        Originally posted by bonanzadave View Post
        I noticed Norms comments on cold weather oil applications. What does a 4 stroke sno-mobile use for oil when its....say like -50f ? They must have block or oil pre-heaters

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