Stainless Bolts/Screws

[JStones]

I want to replace the old stripped/beaten bolts/screws to new stainless steel per the GSR Greeting. Only issue, I have no idea on sizes. Is there a guide? Any advice? How do I got about doing this correctly?

[Nessism]

This is at least the 20th thread I've seen on this topic.

[Hoosier Daddy]

In other words... Did you do a search?
I learned from doing a search here that the size is contained in the Suzuki part #
I personally have replied several times to others so I know the info is out there.

[7981GS]

Contact Z1 enterprises and see if they have a kit for your model.

Daniel

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Allow me. I've got nothing better to do this morning.

I think this is the one you need: http://www.z1enterprises.com/Bolt-Se...-678-1170.aspx




Bolt Set - Suzuki GS550 LT MZ TX 80-82 Stainless Steel Set 678 NGSS-678
-
Includes 62 bolts and 3 Allen keys for a total of 65 pieces. Primarily all visible bolts on lower covers. Any extras shown here - Cylinder Head Cover, Engine Covers.
$25.95


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[JStones]

To all, my apologies.


Basscliff, Thank you for your help.

[DCrippa]

You're not alone. I had the same problem... was one of the 20 for sure.

That part # tip is an awesome tip too.

[GateKeeper]

@ BassCliff - Thanks to your post, I was able to locate what I need for my rebuild....sent Z1 an email for some clarification on other items, but the SS Bolts will be great....

Cheers

[JStones]

Ordered! Thanks Again

[Normk]

Why the propensity to use stainless screws? I see this on an almost constant basis on motorcycle sites.

Stainless fasteners generally have lower tensile strength than those specified for the service application. Stainless and aluminum are bad news together which is why aircraft prohibit their use in aluminum related areas.

Stainless become hard as glass when heated and, in addition to being brittle after heating, are nasty to drill out. You simply have not lived until you have drilled out stainless exhaust bolts/studs from some of the Cummins diesels.... When I had the tool supply business I sold Garr 1500 series carbide drills in order for techs to be able to drill out some of the stainless stuff which had been installed into exhausts. Really nasty! Those Garr drill bits sometimes had trouble drilling the heat hardened stainless despite that they would drill through a file. That should indicate something!

OEM doesn't use them for the above reasons so why do so many people feel that switching is a good idea? It isn't that the cost is an issue and the engineers certainly know that stainless fasteners exist. They don't use them for good reasons......

They are fine for cosmetic areas such as dash and trim, fairing plastics but avoid stainless for structural, steering, suspension and high tensile areas!

FWIW

Norm

[hampshirehog]

OEM doesn't use them for the above reasons so why do so many people feel that switching is a good idea? It isn't that the cost is an issue and the engineers certainly know that stainless fasteners exist. They don't use them for good reasons......

It is all about cost. Stainless costs a few pennies more and the number crunchers always get their way. There are heaps of year old bikes out there that look like poo because they were fitted with cheap galvanised nuts and bolts that rusted last winter.

There are loads of threads on here arguing about where you can and can't use stainless on your bike for strength reasons. Pick the right SS and use it right and you can use it pretty much anywhere. Stainless engine kits are a complete no-brainer if you want your bike to look good easily and use copperslip.

[Normk]

There are few bikes which are fitted with galvanized (zinc coated) fasteners. Most use cadmium plating, FWIW.

Show me the Grade rating for the stainless fasteners in the kits.....

Most of that stuff is non-rated because it is cheap metalurgy so one is not well advised to use it in any area where failure can be safety related.

As for appearance, simply practices such as the use of a wax based product will avoid corrosion of most fasteners which may be a better choice than replacement by some unrated product. Stainless is usually a poor option despite the almost fanatical following.

Just FWIW,

Norm

[Nessism]

The stainless bolts in the Z1 kits are for the engine covers. Stainless is fine for that application since there is no load. antiseize is recommended to avoid galvanic corrosion.

[sschering]

All the stainless I get from the local supplier(Tacoma Screw) is Grade A2 18-8 stainless.. Falls somewhere between Grade 2 and grade 5 bolts..

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

[Nessism]

All the stainless I get from the local supplier(Tacoma Screw) is Grade A2 18-8 stainless.. Falls somewhere between Grade 2 and grade 5 bolts..
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-Chart.aspx

This hardware would be okay to replace Suzuki screws with a "4" imprinted on them, but I don't recommend them to replace bolts/screws labeled as "7" or "9".