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Adjusting valves w/degreed cams
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35692
- Torrance, CA
Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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koolaid_kid
That's O.K., Ed. We have always gotten along and will continue to do so.
It reminds me of a former boss, who only knew one way to do things. If you did not do it his way, it was wrong. I tried time and time again to demonstrate that there was more than one way to skin a rabbit. He was unable to see this, which is why he is now a former boss.
All I was attempting to point out is that the goal of rotating the cams is to insure that the lobe was not riding on the shim cup. There is more than one way to do that. Since this is a major job on my bike (speaking of the GPz) I want to make sure it is correct before I start putting things back together. So I double check and triple check the settings, and I also make absolutely certain that the lobe has no contact with the shim cup.
And I agree with your earlier comment about hot rodders advancing or retarding the cam timing, but I suspect that is not the case here. In fact, when I went to degree the GPz cams I read on the GPz750 mods page that drag racers had experimented with various timings and found the factory setting of 108 degrees to be the best.
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostSuzuki's adjustment method is really simple, and only calls for rotating the engine to four positions to adjust all the valves. This method places adjacent valves (or pairs of valves with the 16v engines) on the cam base circle so the adjacent valve springs are not pushing up on the cam and skewing the cam within the journal bearing clearance, thus leading to inaccurate clearance adjustment.
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