Winter maintanence sequencing for best results

[Guest]

I've got a big list of things I'd like to take care of on the GS this winter. I'm trying to get the bike to start better in the cold and eliminate frequent popping during spirited deceleration. Still being a total noob, I don't know if there's a sequence of jobs that would make the most sense. Or, is there something I'm leaving out? (I'll be using the guides on BassCliff's website)

1. Check and adjust valve clearance
2. Dip the carbs, install new o-rings, replace what ever is leaking gas in my #4 carb
3. Sync carbs
4. Check compression

[hampshirehog]

Sounds good to me. What about an oil and filter change as well? She'll love you for it

[LoopGaroo]

Oh yea, that's the first thing I'll do.

Here's my full mechanical list (not in order):

1. Check and adjust valve clearance
2. Dip the carbs, install new o-rings, replace what ever is leaking gas on my #4 carb
3. Sync carbs
4. Check compression
5. Change the pumpkin oil
6. Change gear box oil
7. Possibly rebuild the rear mater cylinder
8. Get the bugs out of the turn signals
9. Adjust fork preload
10. End of season oil change
11. new fuel line

I've also got a separate cosmetic list

[cowboyup3371]

Definitely do the valve clearances and carbs together but before the synching. Past that, what condition are your intake and airbox boots in?

[LoopGaroo]

I just replaced the intake boots. It's all good.

[Steve]

If your bike runs at all right now, start with a compression check. You will need to get the bike up to operating temperature to do that, so get a reading now, then you can compare that to another reading later.



I have re-arranged your list to the order that I would use:

1. Check compression This must be done at operating temerature, with throttle held wide open. Start with this baseline.
2. End of season oil change Do this while the engine is warm. Good idea to store bike with fresh oil.
3. Change gear box oil Do this while the engine is warm. Even better if you rode the bike to warm it up.
4. Change the pumpkin oil Do this while the engine is warm. Even better if you rode the bike to warm it up.
5. Dip the carbs, install new o-rings, replace what ever is leaking gas on my #4 carb There is a good chance that your new o-rings will fix that. Watch the o-ring around the float valve when you remove it.
6. new fuel line Please consider the extra expense of OEM line. Yeah, it's about $15, but you get enough for about 6 bikes.
7. Check and adjust valve clearance You can do this while the carbs are in the 'dip'.
8. Sync carbs Always done after adjusting the valves.
9. Possibly rebuild the rear mater cylinder Why not the front, too? Why not the calipers, too? Parts-N-More has good prices on decent kits.
10. Get the bugs out of the turn signals Litteral bug in the housings or electrical problems?
11. Adjust fork preload Why not change springs, then adjust the preload? MUCH better results.
12. Run another compression check to see if it improved.

.

[LoopGaroo]

Thanks Steve. this is just the advice i needed. Oh yea, i need to change the headset bearings too - not really looking forward to that... I think it's out of my league....


Regarding the fork:
While replacing the fork oil and fork seals this Spring I noticed that the fork springs are not stock - they're longer than the stock springs but still use the original preload cartridge. I was thinking about swapping them with a slightly smaller cartridge to soften the ride.