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several years back someone had suggested packing the rotor end with grease then running the bolt in. The theory being the grease being compressed acted as a hydraulic jack and the rotor would come off rather easy. I haven't had a chance to try it but I do remember a few guys having good luck. Worst case you could go back to using a slide hammer.78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
82 Kat 1000 Project
05 CRF450x
10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike
P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.
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Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
With a slide hammer you are just exerting force directly onto the rotor, whereas with the other method you are in effect hammering direct onto the crank (with small socket inserted). The slide hammer is pulling away from the crank and the other method is hammering directly onto and pushing the crank into the engine. To remove my rotor (and as I said it had been Loctited to the taper) it took only two slides of the hammer, whereas if you look at the end of Scott's tool there were many more impacts than that.
The socket on bolt method puts tension on rotor while putting compression on bolt to crankshaft end- usually no need to "hammer"- tighten bolt, tap rotor to jar it, more tightening. more tapping and the rotor will slide down the taper and free itself. Of course, you have to get a proper socket and put its drive end against crank so not to damage crankface. If it's really stuck/rusted, you might have to hammer on bolt, but this is different from the force that a slide hammer is exerting.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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Matchless
I recently had to remove a rotor from a BMW R100 and their method seems to work quite well and may work on our GS's as well, although I have not tried it yet.
Although they have a special bolt, I made one up as per the picture. I used a piece off an old screwdriver shaft that just clears the threads inside the crank end which is high tensile. This is important as a softer metal rod may bend or deform and get stuck.
The bolt used must also be high tensile so that the end pushing on the rod end does not deform.
The bolt is then screwed down into the rotor and onto the end of this metal rod which puts force on the inside of the crank end. Thus no pressure on the tip of the crank.
When its nice and tight a sharp tap with a hammer on the bolt head and the rotor pops off easily.
Last edited by Guest; 01-16-2012, 01:33 PM.
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Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View PostThanks all. I picked up a 12mmx1.25 tap to clean up that hole after getting a gauge to verify the bolt's thread pitch. I also picked up a new bolt albeit the same size (I didn't see Mike's post til afterwards) as the old one since it looks like the threads are messed up on a small part of it.
If I return that bolt and get a tad longer (the one I have is 45mm long and Ace has a 50mm), will it hurt anything inside that crank to retap it so I can thread the longer one in?
Is the bolt from Ace the proper grade?
If not call AAA Metric in Denver, they should have exactly what you need.
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Tom, after talking with Josh last night I'll stick with the 45mm bolt since he was saying that crankshaft might be too hard to rethread. Also, the bolt I picked up from Ace has the 8.8 marking on the head which based on everything I've read is pretty strong and applicable to this usage (old one is marked with a 7).
Am I wrong? If so, please let me know and I'll get down there to replace it.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by tom203 View PostWhat ever works for you is fine.
The socket on bolt method puts tension on rotor while putting compression on bolt to crankshaft end- usually no need to "hammer"- tighten bolt, tap rotor to jar it, more tightening. more tapping and the rotor will slide down the taper and free itself. Of course, you have to get a proper socket and put its drive end against crank so not to damage crankface. If it's really stuck/rusted, you might have to hammer on bolt, but this is different from the force that a slide hammer is exerting.Last edited by Guest; 01-16-2012, 04:08 PM.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View PostTom, after talking with Josh last night I'll stick with the 45mm bolt since he was saying that crankshaft might be too hard to rethread. Also, the bolt I picked up from Ace has the 8.8 marking on the head which based on everything I've read is pretty strong and applicable to this usage (old one is marked with a 7).
Am I wrong? If so, please let me know and I'll get down there to replace it.
I think 8.8 should be fine Scott. That is similar to an SAE grade 5, or Suzuki's bolts marked "7".
You are going to want to loctite the bolt in place when you get that far. Degrease both the crank snout and the bolt before applying the sauce. High temperature loctite is ideal for that application - I believe the Suzuki service manual should have a recommendation somewhere.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Yea I picked that up before starting (red loctite) but thank you for the reminder.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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I cleaned the crankshaft end this afternoon with Simple Green and a towel and then wiped out the new rotor. I also took the tap through the threads and cleaned out as much crap as I could see.
Afterwards, I spent some time putting the old springs, plungers, and rollers back in. For anyone else reading this, please pay attention to how you handle the rotor as they will fall back out very easily.
There is a small hole in here the spring fits into and it takes a bit to get both the plunger and the spring in there. I'm using a piece of baling wire from one of my hay bales to help push it in place.
Once the spring is in place, insert the wire through the hole in top and hold it back until you get the roller in place
Then release and move on.
Once I got downstairs and put a roller back in that fell out on me, I placed the primary drive gear back in place with the cambered section of the washer towards the engine block. I didn't replace the roller bearings inside as they felt fine so hopefully I'll be okay there.
The rotor was pressed in place. Make sure you hold the rotor in such a way that the rollers and springs don't fall out. Essentially, one spring/roller assembly cannot be directly on top as you put it on; two must be at an angle to the crankshaft rod.
Placed the red loc-tite along the last four threads of the bolt, put it in place, and torqued it to 53 foot pounds per the torque specs. I then placed the starter gear back in.
I had to turn the engine to check my shims and everything seemed to move smoothly so I'm making a big assumption that this was done right. I guess I'll know more when I finally get it running at highway speeds.
Thank you for the help everyone.Last edited by cowboyup3371; 01-21-2012, 12:08 PM.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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