Valve cover gasket

[Steve]

Use grease so it doesn't stick next time, or even anti-sieze compound.
Maybe put it on one side, let it stick to the cover but not the head. Or grease up both sides, either way works OK.

When I remove the cover, I would rather have the gasket stay with the head.

Since you will be sliding the cover out and dragging it through some tight spaces, there is less chance of snagging the gasket and damaging it.

As tkent suggested, grease, anti-sieze, WD-40, motor oil, just about anything, will work. I use WD-40. Just spray some on the gasket, spread it around a bit to soak it in, then put the gasket into place.

By lubing the gasket, you should be able to re-use it several times, unless you tear it.

.

[tkent02]

Steve, does WD-40 really work for that?

[aldoski]

Use grease so it doesn't stick next time, or even anti-sieze compound.
Maybe put it on one side, let it stick to the cover but not the head. Or grease up both sides, either way works OK.

Awesome, thanks!

[koolaid_kid]

To remove the remaining gasket, I usually use a plastic scraper. Also, stuff some rags down in the cam area so the stuff does not get into the engine and block any oil passages.

[aldoski]

So how clean should the valve cover be where the gasket was stuck? I used a razor blade to get as much of the residual off but there still seems to be extremely thin layers of sealant in some places. Should I take some 1000 grit sand paper to it?

[Sci85]

I have been successful using Acetone (nail polish remover) to get the residual gasket material off without having to resort to anything that will remove material off the machined surface. Wear gloves, it's powerful stuff.

A plastic (without any metal) scraper as Koolaid suggested works well too.

I have learned my lesson the hard way scraping on aluminium and creating gouges. Don't do it unless you really have no other option.

[tkent02]

Also NAPA sells some stuff they call gasket remover, it's like paint remover.

It will turn the stuff into goo which comes off easily. Single edge razor blades do a nice job but it's risky, if you slip or even hold the blade at the wrong angle there's a gouge.
It's easy to screw it up when working on the head inside the frame.

[aldoski]

Okay well I got some of that gasket removal stuff and am letting it sit.

On another note, I did some reading and saw that there might be an issue with the RealGasket silicon valve cover gasket and the tach drive gear being in the valve cover. Does anyone have any further insight on this? Do I need a paper gasket?

This is the thread... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...gasket+removal

[koolaid_kid]

I ended up replacing my RealGasket with an OEM gasket. No more leaks.

[keman]

I use un-flavored chapstick on both sides of my cam cover gaskets. Been able to re use the cam cover gasket three times now without leaks.

On side covers and such, I use hi-tack to stick them to the covers, and chapstick on the case side. They come off the case clean and stay put on the cover for re use.

Black lipstick works well too.

Do a good check of those half moon bungs while you have it apart. Even slight hardening can be a major pain to get a good seal again. New bungs are cheap, may as well replace them... Z1 has them in stock.

[aldoski]

So I should probably just return my RealGasket and buy an OEM one?

[Steve]

On another note, I did some reading and saw that there might be an issue with the RealGasket silicon valve cover gasket and the tach drive gear being in the valve cover. Does anyone have any further insight on this? Do I need a paper gasket?

So I should probably just return my RealGasket and buy an OEM one?

That is correct, the Real Gasket will not work well with your bike.

The reason is because the tach drive gear is mounted to the cylinder head COVER, not the head. When you use a thicker gasket, it prevents proper meshing of the drive gears. If you are lucky, the tach simply won't work. If you are not so lucky, you will damage the gears.

.

[aldoski]

That is correct, the Real Gasket will not work well with your bike.

The reason is because the tach drive gear is mounted to the cylinder head COVER, not the head. When you use a thicker gasket, it prevents proper meshing of the drive gears. If you are lucky, the tach simply won't work. If you are not so lucky, you will damage the gears.

.

Roger that, Steve. Just ordered an OEM gasket. A little bit more pricey but will be well worth it judging from what you just stated.

[1_v8_merc]

if you have a 16bolt, I think you actually want an 81 650 valve gasket.
Because I ordered an 82, and it had the 17th bolt-hole, and 2 other holes Didnt line up correctly.
We looked in the computer, and there are 3 types of valve gaskets for an 82 650.
One is outdated and discontinued(inferior material I think)
One is the Normal Replacement, which has the 17th hole, usually the dealers have plenty in stock.
The last one is just a Serial Number on the computer, if you copy that # down,
and immediately look under 81 650, the gaskets match.

Well it did at the Suzuki dealer.

[aldoski]

Thanks for looking out. I did make sure when I ordered it that it was the 16 bolt one because of the discussion earlier in the thread. They did have both on the site.