What's my leak...

[salty_monk]

Well obviously I can pull it apart & see but I wondered if there was an "oh XX gasket always leaks on those...

Looks Like it's the oil pressure switch that needs sealing or one of the other bolts either side perhaps...

This amount of oil is about 2500 miles worth so it's not bad.

It's not running from anywhere else (the cam chain tensioner seals were replaced 2500 miles ago - I figured that was what this oil was before but seems it was a bit of both...)



Dan

[TheCafeKid]

Looks more like the cam chain tensionor oring is gone south to me. There IS a rubber ring gasket under the oil sending block and iirc there's one in the pressure sensor as well, but it's been my experience that mess you see there is either from the tensionor oring or the gasket. The oil sling from the chain will make a bloody mess either in front of the tunnel if the valve cover gasket is cracked or back there. Sometimes both as air flow will blow it through.

[tkent02]

Is it clean and dry everywhere else?
I would suspect the tach drive?
It will seep there from the tach drive, and they usually do leak.
It's probably a good time to do the "roll her in baby powder and look for the wet spot" test.

[BassCliff]

Hey Dan,

Let's hope it's not your base gasket.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[sedelen]

I don't see how oil got to the top of those oil pressure switch plate bolts if it were leaking either from the bolts, the switch, or the gasket for the oil pressure switch, that is unless it misted on there. But you can clearly see where oil has run down the side. Since your cam chain tensioner is above that, you have 2 oil seals one O ring and one gasket where the tensioner mates to the engine. Is it dry underneath the tensioner? Those things are prone to leak, my latest is the little o ring for the locking nut screw. That tach drive is on the front of the engine, it could be possible for the air cooling to blow it back, but I would think the leak would be more in the vincinity of pressure switch.
I tighten everything up then clean it off and look for fresh oil to develop and then trace it's source back.

[7981GS]

I would just clean it and check for a leak later.
But if you want it to stop leaking out of the sensor, you could unscrew it, clean and dry the threads,
apply some Ultra Black sealer to the threads and let it dry for 24 hours before starting the bike again.
There is no seal between the sensor and the housing.
Just plastic threads into aluminum.
It may very well be coming out of the metal sensor contact though.
In which case you would need a new sensor.
Possibly try some Hi-temp pipe sealant.

Daniel

[tkent02]

I don't see how oil got to the top of those oil pressure switch plate bolts if it were leaking either from the bolts, the switch, or the gasket for the oil pressure switch, that is unless it misted on there.

That's it, when oil comes out of a hot engine, it sometimes mists everywhere.
That's why it's likely to be from the tach drive, anything behind that will get oiled.

[Nessism]

There is a black O-ring around the plastic sensor at the top.

The entire assembly has a number of seals: sensor O-ring, oblong O-ring for main plate, dowtey type seals under the screws. I'd replace all of them as a matter of course, although the oil residue looks random so Tom might be right in thinking the source is somewhere else.

Dan, I should have most of those seals if you want to borrow. It will cost you a six pack, and enough of your time to help drink it. Let me know if I can help.

[salty_monk]

It's not from the cam chain as I've replaced all the seals recently & yes I know there are multiple seals... I'm not a complete amateur

It's dry everywhere else and this is minimal.

The tach seals have been done recently too, although I do still get some residue on the cable every now and again (yes I've replaced the front seal as well as the O ring).

This is not a big deal but whilst I'm here with it all accessible I though I'd have a go at eradicating it completely.

Ed - yes please. I need to chat to you anyway, still got that bit of brazing to do plus I could use a hand with a set of forks (1100). Want to take then apart and drill the damper rods for emulators.

Thanks for the ideas all.

[7981GS]

#33, 34, 36 and 38 under $25.00 to fix it.
Throw in #37 for another $15 and it will be new.

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=95403&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1978&fveh=2146

Daniel

[salty_monk]

Yes, I cleaned it up last night & it seems it's coming from the oil sender. I pulled that out & put a new O ring on (from a multi kit I have, had one the right size). The O ring was there but flat & crusty so most likely that.

I also sealed around where the connector leaves the plastic bush with some epoxy. I guess I'll order some new kit whenever I make my next order of parts & put them on the shelf for next time I have the carbs off.