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    Valve Adjustment Questions

    I measured the clearances, and only two were in spec. On the other 6, I couldn't get the smallest feeler in there (.038 mm) but they weren't so tight that they couldn't spin, at least as far as I can tell.


    Any tricks to getting the shims out without the special compressor tool? I was hoping I could use the tool I have for old diesel Volkswagen rabbit motors, but it is just a bit too wide. Also I believe the diesel shims are too large by .5mm. Oh well.


    On the diesel motors, I didn't really like using the valve compressor (still fiddly to get the thing out) so I would measure the current clearances, then just pull the cam off and pop them all out, do my calculations and in stall the correct new shims.


    Any reason I couldn't loosen the cams? With the chain in the middle it wouldn't be quite as simple as the diesel, but I figure if I mark the chain relative to the cam sprocket and then loosen the caps it would be OK. At least give me a bit more room.


    As far as replacing the shims goes:

    Since I cannot get the smallest feeler gauge in there, but there seems to be enough of a gap that it can still spin, should I just order the next size or two smaller from whatever happens to be in there? I'm hoping I can move some around, and/or the parts bike will yield some to reduce the amount needed.


    Thanks!

    #2
    I use the factory recommended tool.
    You might ask some of the guys that Mickey Mouse around with zip ties instead.

    Daniel

    Comment


      #3
      The cam caps are held in with specially hardened bolts threaded into aluminum. These bolts just LOVE to break off and gall, or strip out the aluminum threads.

      In other words, there are only so many times you can take the camshafts off and on. It just ain't worth the risks, and setting timing is enough of a pain in the ass that it definitely won't save any time.

      The tool is cheap, fast, and works very well.

      If you're too tight to spend $13.61 on the correct tool, you have lots of company around here. These folks have come up with the "zip-tie" method, where you fold a large zip-tie just so and poke it through the spark plug hole, while rotating the engine, to prop the valve open.

      It's fairly foolproof (unless your zip-tie breaks off), and it works, but takes a while...

      Some people also have trouble using the regular tool. There's a certain knack to it -- you can't let it slip sideways.

      And, of course, some folks have improvised various levers, screwdrivers, etc. to substitute for the tool.
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      Comment


        #4
        Only problem I have ever had with the tool is usually on the inner cylinders sometimes it's just really tight in there and the tool doesn't want to rest on the edge of the bucket without impeading on the shim itself. But, fiddle with it a bit, sometimes scrape some skin off your knuckles and you'll get it down pat. I have done the zip tie method as well, and, I've also had the zip tie break and fall into the cylinder. That sucked. And cost a hell of a lot more than some skin off my knuckles. Heh.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by bwringer View Post
          If you're too tight to spend $13.61 on the correct tool, you have lots of company around here. These folks have come up with the "zip-tie" method, where you fold a large zip-tie just so and poke it through the spark plug hole, while rotating the engine, to prop the valve open.

          It's fairly foolproof (unless your zip-tie breaks off), and it works, but takes a while...

          Some people also have trouble using the regular tool. There's a certain knack to it -- you can't let it slip sideways.
          Brian, stop talking about me.

          Yeah, I am one of "those guys" that uses the zip-tie method and have shown it to several others.

          I have the "correct" tool, too, but apparently lack the knack of using it properly.

          Yet another reason you don't want to loosen your cams:
          When you loosen your cams, your tensioner is going to take up the slack. On your 650 (thanks for putting that in your signature ), you will have to remove the tensioner to reset it before putting the cams back in, and, unfortunately, you will have to remove the carbs so you can remove the tensioner.

          You sure you want to do all that, just to avoid depressing a few buckets?

          Have you read up on the zip-tie method? It's on BassCliff's site (of course), but you can click on the link I just gave you to get there quickly.

          .
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          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Steve View Post
            Brian, stop talking about me.

            Yeah, I am one of "those guys" that uses the zip-tie method and have shown it to several others.

            I have the "correct" tool, too, but apparently lack the knack of using it properly.

            Yet another reason you don't want to loosen your cams:
            When you loosen your cams, your tensioner is going to take up the slack. On your 650 (thanks for putting that in your signature ), you will have to remove the tensioner to reset it before putting the cams back in, and, unfortunately, you will have to remove the carbs so you can remove the tensioner.

            You sure you want to do all that, just to avoid depressing a few buckets?

            Have you read up on the zip-tie method? It's on BassCliff's site (of course), but you can click on the link I just gave you to get there quickly.

            .
            Yanno, I'll bring this up perhaps as a "what not to do, but I somehow got away with it"; Early on in my wrenching "career" before I graduated from total novice to the "adequate hack" you see before you, I'd pulled the cams out of more than one engine without removing, or even resetting, the tensioner. Never had it come back to bite me in the arse, although getting the timing set and then having it change when you locked down the caps was more than frustrating...

            Lesson learned here? Doing it right the first time is usually faster than trying to cut corners... A lesson that many here have likely learned rather frustratingly

            Comment


              #7
              video4 ya

              maybe this tool would work for you guys
              nice lil video

              Comment


                #8
                Just use a good quality zip-tie.
                Those cheap wal-mart ones can be brittle.

                Don't be surprised if you can't find the valve tool at the local dealer.
                I went to the Suzuki dealer, and they had NO idea what the hell I was talking about!
                I literally had to sit down and explain it to them!
                Even then...they refused to even try to order it, because they didn't know where to look in the the computer.
                Last edited by Guest; 03-01-2012, 04:01 PM.

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                  #9
                  motion pro,if you want a tool nuthin against the zip tie thing, im a tool lover though

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by platinum2 View Post
                    maybe this tool would work for you guys
                    nice lil video
                    http://youtu.be/CIpEfMZupG4
                    That just couldn't work,
                    he is not aligning the notches and just going by the cam lobe pointing up!
                    LMAO!!!

                    Daniel

                    Comment


                      #11
                      At the end of the video I was like "crap he's gonna get killed riding on the wrong side of the road like that!" I also like the Michael Jackson and Lynel Richie playing in the background.

                      I still like the motion pro tool best.

                      Comment

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