Replacing EVERY bolt on the motor... they're all stainless... should I use anti-seize on them, or loctite? I know stainless and aluminum don't play nice together, and I want to avoid stripping out bolts in the future... but I don't want anything backing out on me unexpectedly.
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Stainless Bolts: Anti-Seize, or LocTite?
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DannyMotor
Stainless Bolts: Anti-Seize, or LocTite?
So, quick question.
Replacing EVERY bolt on the motor... they're all stainless... should I use anti-seize on them, or loctite? I know stainless and aluminum don't play nice together, and I want to avoid stripping out bolts in the future... but I don't want anything backing out on me unexpectedly.Tags: None
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TheCafeKid
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DannyMotor
You thinking the blue stuff, or the red stuff? The blue isn't as 'strong' as the red. Red is meant to be permanent.
What about the intake boots as well? The little paper that came with my o-rings and bolt kit said "do yourself a favor and put some anti-seize on these"... so, I can sub for loc-tite, or should I abide by the tiny slip of paper? haha.
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FiremanBob
Don't use the red Loctite. It's too strong, often requiring heating with a torch to release.
I prefer anti-seize. The mechanical action of the screw stretching makes plenty of force to keep the screw in place. And I've had enough trouble removing fasteners stripped or broken by previous "mechanics" to not want to make any more trouble for myself or the next guy.
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7981GS
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by FiremanBob View PostDon't use the red Loctite. It's too strong, often requiring heating with a torch to release.
I prefer anti-seize. The mechanical action of the screw stretching makes plenty of force to keep the screw in place. And I've had enough trouble removing fasteners stripped or broken by previous "mechanics" to not want to make any more trouble for myself or the next guy.
As to clicker torque wrenches, most are near worthless at the bottom and top end of their range, and many of those bolts are light torque. If you have an in/lbs wrench, use that. I've never used anti-seize in anything but sparkplugs and header bolts. Loctite seals the threads and prevents the corrosion just the same, as well as prevents back out. On most of your covers back out probably wouldn't be an issue but on an area like the valve cover that sees fairly frequent removal I wouldn't not use Loctite there. The threads usually don't grip like they used to and valve cover gasket leaks are messy...
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FiremanBob
On a previous bike I had a spark plug break off in the head because the PO didn't use anti-seize. After removing the engine and paying a machinist to remove the plug, I'll never fail to use it.
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7981GS
It goes on every nut, bolt, screw, etc. that doesn't REQUIRE a form of Lok-tite on every engine I have ever built and every nut, bolt, screw, etc. on everything else too.
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Good Times
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1_v8_merc
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Copperslip does the trick (and throw away the torque wrench if you use it - the reading will be useless as you overtighten).
Use Loctite where you don't want things to come undone that are prone to coming undone (usually things that are moving or vibrating). Red is near permanent. Green is grade A b&st&rd permanent - just spent a couple of hours getting shot of it after somebody used it on the bottom allen bolts on a pair of forks.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by hampshirehog View PostCopperslip does the trick (and throw away the torque wrench if you use it - the reading will be useless as you overtighten).
Use Loctite where you don't want things to come undone that are prone to coming undone (usually things that are moving or vibrating). Red is near permanent. Green is grade A b&st&rd permanent - just spent a couple of hours getting shot of it after somebody used it on the bottom allen bolts on a pair of forks.
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