noob mistake: tried to loosen the drain nut the wrong way and lost the threads

[tkent02]

Question: If it leaks slowly, is it possible to see it dripping when you take the pipe out from the petcock?

There are two paths for fuel to get through the petcock into the crankcase.
One is a holed diaphragm, fuel flows down the vacuum line into the #2 carburetor, and into the intake port. The petcock will still function normally as far as shutting off the flow of fuel when the engine is off, and unless the hole is very big, it will still turn on the flow of fuel when the engine is running. To test for this, check for fuel in the vacuum line. You should be able to suck on the vacuum hose and not get any fuel.

The second path is by the rubber o ring not sealing properly, so the fuel cannot be shut off. It just leaks all the time. When it is on the bike, full tank, and with fuel in the line to the carburetor there is a vertical drop of over a foot, this creates quite a syphon. If the petcock can't seal perfectly fuel will flow slowly the whole time until the tank is emptied into the crankcase. If you take the hose off to look you lose the vacuum of the syphon, it is possible that it won't leak while you are watching it. A good test is to run a fuel line from the petcock down a few feet to a container with some fuel in it, go to prime to fill the hose, move it back to ON, mark the fuel level in the container, and go away for a while. If you come back and there is more fuel in the container than there was, you have a slowly leaking petcock. It only takes a few drops a minute to put a gallon or so onto your oil over time, very hard to detect a slow leak just by looking at it.

If you want a decent reliable motorcycle, just skip all the testing and buy a new petcock. The old one did it's job for thirty years, get a new one and forget about it for another thirty.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Sorry I'm late with this. In addition to the "oil change" guide on my little website, you'll also find this:

Stripped Oil Drain Plug Repair

Yes, I stripped mine too and had to repair it. I thought it would be a good idea to replace the crush washer on the drain plug. It didn't get the right one at the auto parts store and I ended up stripping the plug. Oops.

Definitely sort out the leaky petcock/float valve issue. Gas in the oil is not a good thing. This might help:

Overflowing Carbs

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[ram]

Hi,

Sorry I'm late with this. In addition to the "oil change" guide on my little website, you'll also find this:

Stripped Oil Drain Plug Repair

Definitely sort out the leaky petcock/float valve issue. Gas in the oil is not a good thing.

Thanks BassCliff. I found a canadian company that sells the drain plugs online. I was not able to find anything in the stores. I was thinking of using the oversize 14MM - 1.5 with Piggyback so that I dont have to worry about messing it in future ( unless I get disoriented again..! )
http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_p...ize_repair.htm

Regarding the Petcock, I am not going to take chances., I will order a new one from links that I got from search. Can you tell me what is the mounting distance for a 1980 Suzuki GS850 GT?

[mrbill5491]

For permanent fix, pull the oil pan and have a steel insert installed by a trusted bike or machine shop. Buy a new drain plug and a copper crush washer to fit. Make sure the new pan gasket is the thick one. Oh once you get it back make sure the slots on the insert are even with the bottom on the inside of the pan, this will insure all the oil will drain out. Just use a file or a dremel tool on the slots. I went with the oversize self tapping plugs for awhile, though those threads will eventually strip out the pan even more as well, mine did. So I did the steel insert, wished I had done that in the first place. No more stripping worries.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

For permanent fix, pull the oil pan and have a steel insert installed by a trusted bike or machine shop.

Yes. Or pick up a good used oil pan from eBay or one of the good members here.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[chuck hahn]

Hey Frank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LMAO buddy.

[7981GS]

Thanks BassCliff. I found a canadian company that sells the drain plugs online. I was not able to find anything in the stores.
I was thinking of using the oversize 14MM - 1.5 with Piggyback so that I dont have to worry about messing it in future
( unless I get disoriented again..! )
http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_p...ize_repair.htm

The problem that I don't like, besides not fixing it correctly, is that with those piggyback plugs,
not only does it take forever to drain but, it leaves some dirty oil in the pan as the outer plug threads are taller than the bottom of the pan.

Eric

[ram]

UPDATE: plugs obtained

The problem that I don't like, besides not fixing it correctly, is that with those piggyback plugs,
not only does it take forever to drain but, it leaves some dirty oil in the pan as the outer plug threads are taller than the bottom of the pan.

Eric

Thanks Eric, that brings a good argument also. Currently I am only going to drain it when engine is cold. So that could leave some pretty messed up oil there.

I am going today to local Salvage store (Toronto Cycle Salvage Inc) and see if they have something with them.

After searching at Canadian Tire and NAPA and returning empty handed, I went to Part Source and they had the Dorman M14- 1.5 oversize as well as the Piggyback one in stock. I am going to hold on to them until I find out if I ever will use them or not.

Today, I am going to remove the Carbs.

[tkent02]

The problem that I don't like, besides not fixing it correctly, is that with those piggyback plugs,
not only does it take forever to drain but, it leaves some dirty oil in the pan as the outer plug threads are taller than the bottom of the pan.

Eric

That can be fixed easily enough with a file.

[ram]

Finally I was able to remove the drain pan. I had to remove the Exhausts and lower them down to remove the pan.

I am getting another pan from the forum and will probably fix this pan for future use or give it to someone.

[mrbill5491]

Wow, what kind of oil have you been using, I never seen pan all gunked up like yours. Even when I pulled my pan off it was clean as it could be and it had never been off in 22 years. Just clean your pan good and get the steel insert. No more worries after that.

[cowboyup3371]

I'm a little late to this but I'm glad you're getting it sorted out. I pulled that mistake on my very first oil change for my 550T. I normally check my ratchet before working on any vehicle but just didn't do it that day. Now, I really make a conscious effort to check it before putting it against any bolt.

[daturat100r]

Got the same problem occured at first oilchange,would say a previous owner overtightened after not annealling sealing washer.Stuck out in the sticks with no vehicle meant i had to repair it there and then.Waited till dripping had all but finished ,leaned bike over, cleaned plug hole with white spirits,lubed the plug then smeared it with epoxy based "liquid metal" and tightened it lightly into position.
Arranged to do a helicoil insert ,using std sparkplud insert,at a mates workshop but ran out of time and needed to do the next oil change.Undid the plug carefully and with nothing to loose annealled the washer and the plug went back in fine with no problems(so far).
Will organize the insert for next oilchange but im impressed with the temporary repair.It certainly saved me a load of grief ,eying up a NOS oilpan on local auction site for NZ$70 but unfortunately alternator is sucked up the funds

[ram]

The bike has sat for atleast 2 years before I got it. Hence the pan looks really dirty. I have ordered one from this forum for $20. I asked a local shop and they told me it would cost $50 + to get the repair done.
Until I find a cheaper alternative, I will use the replacement.

[mrbill5491]

Oh okay gotcha, makes one wonder what the inside of the engine looks like as well. Even at $50 you have a repair that should never be repaired again unless you are some kind of gorilla with a 200lb torque wrench... lol

UOTE=ram;1644778]The bike has sat for atleast 2 years before I got it. Hence the pan looks really dirty. I have ordered one from this forum for $20. I asked a local shop and they told me it would cost $50 + to get the repair done.
Until I find a cheaper alternative, I will use the replacement.[/QUOTE]