What seems to be the problem? I did not replace the gasket as it looked okay. Could this be due to a leaky gasket?
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replaced oil drain pan, now oil leaks from bolts
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ram
replaced oil drain pan, now oil leaks from bolts
I replaced my oil drain pan after a stripped drain plug. After I bolted all the bolts in place. I just wanted to test whether everything looked okay. So, I added some oil to see how its going. Soon enough oil started coming from the bolts that I had just tightened.
What seems to be the problem? I did not replace the gasket as it looked okay. Could this be due to a leaky gasket?Tags: None
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koolaid_kid
You really cannot tell from appearances. Any lower gaskets (oil pan, stator cover, clutch cover) should be replaced if it has any significant miles on it. Whatever you do, do not ever use gasket sealers or RTV on any gaskets unless you are on the side of the road 300 miles from home and need to make it back home.
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ram
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The oil pan uses a thicker gasket, I learned that the hard when I did the same thing as you did. Dealer was cool about it and cut me a thicker gasket (that's when they still had a operation gasket cutting set up) and no more problems.
Originally posted by ram View PostI replaced my oil drain pan after a stripped drain plug. After I bolted all the bolts in place. I just wanted to test whether everything looked okay. So, I added some oil to see how its going. Soon enough oil started coming from the bolts that I had just tightened.
What seems to be the problem? I did not replace the gasket as it looked okay. Could this be due to a leaky gasket?sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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7981GS
I cannot understand the logic of going to the trouble to replace the pan and NOT using a new $10.00 gasket.
Eric
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Thats gasket has been crushed and compacted and is crap and now you gotta do it all again. And be sure all the little pieces of gasket are off the engine and the pan or youll be doing try number 3 shortly. Save yourself the trouble of using 3 bond or RTV too...gasket the thing.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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ram
Originally posted by 7981GS View PostI cannot understand the logic of going to the trouble to replace the pan and NOT using a new $10.00 gasket.
Eric
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spyug
buy a genuine gasket, cut or home made gaskets never work. for the cost of them its false economy to bodge it
Hopefully, your gasket will be in stock. I've now been waiting 2 weeks.
Cheers & good luck,
spyug
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ram
Can someone explain quickly how gasket works? Does it prevent complete flow of oil from touching the drain pan? does it take whole weight of oil when the bike is in centrestand?
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The new gasket is thick and pliable. As you tighten the bolts it will squish itself into all the little imperfections on both sides of it. It acts as a barrier for the oil to leak around or thru any gaps, thus sealing the space. It does hold back the entire weight of the oil as it settles down in to the sump.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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ram
Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostThe new gasket is thick and pliable. As you tighten the bolts it will squish itself into all the little imperfections on both sides of it. It acts as a barrier for the oil to leak around or thru any gaps, thus sealing the space. It does hold back the entire weight of the oil as it settles down in to the sump.
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Yes...once its squished and heat has made it take a set and then becomes brittle, you cant torque the bolts to make it squish anymore without breaking a bolt of stripping out the fragile alumiunim threads in the case..which you need to be carefull to use a torque wrench on the new one so you dont strip anything. dont skimp on any of the other engine cover gaskets either..just my 2 cents worth. One thing I hate more than anyhting is to spend the time and then have chit leak..Last edited by chuck hahn; 05-24-2012, 11:59 AM.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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koolaid_kid
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be carefull not to use sand paper or other abrasives on the machined surface either. You dont want to induce low spots. I recommend a utility knife blade and go along and fillet the old gasket from the areas it stays stuck to. Clean the surfaces with a CLEAN rag and some laquer thinner to be sure its potless clean and no grit or anything is there to get trapped in the gaskets.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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