How I will be spending my long 4th of July "weekend"

[hampshirehog]

Anything I can do to get it to run (even poorly) until I can get the new screws? Right now it just pours gas out of the 4th carb overflow. I use this bike to get to work, and I may have to hitch a ride with a friend if I cant get it to work, but I'd rather it just work, even if it doesn't work well.

You can get them ok(ish) with busted fuel screws but if she's leaking out of the #4 overflow that needs sorting - else you might find yourself on fire and petrol burns pretty quickly..... Either a stuck float valve, incorrectly adjusted float valve, crap in the float valve needle seat or a worn float valve needle.

[bbytes]

The float valve is the thing that looks like a tiny dreidel right? I didn't notice any way to adjust it.

Should I just replace it with one from my carb rebuild kits?

[hampshirehog]

The float valve is the thing that looks like a tiny dreidel right? I didn't notice any way to adjust it.

Should I just replace it with one from my carb rebuild kits?

Dreidel = Yiddish spinning top? If so that's the thing. The manual shows you how to adjust float height.

[bbytes]

Looks like I just bend the float arm until it is at 26mm? Can I just use my precision calipers to check this height?

[hampshirehog]

Looks like I just bend the float arm until it is at 26mm? Can I just use my precision calipers to check this height?

You got it.

[bbytes]

Looks like the 4th carb had a stuck float valve needle and the floats were set at 20mm not 26mm. I opened them all, and set them to 26mm. Most of them were at 22mm. No more gas leaks!

I put the carbs back on the bike, and even with the broken fuel screws, it runs much better than before. I still cant find the proper screws online though. Maybe I'll call Z1 tomorrow and see if they can help.

Anyway, thanks with this so far. I plan to do a lot more to the bike once I have a garage I can work with (2 weeks from now). I'm sure I'll have problems for you guys to help me solve then

[bbytes]

BTW, where do I hook up a manometer to the carburetors to do a sync?

[cowboyup3371]

Look under your intake boots for a screw on the sides; number 19 here.

[bbytes]

OK. So do I need an adapter to screw into those holes to be able to get the manometer hoses on it?

[cowboyup3371]

What are you using Bbytes? A carbtune or something else?

Yes there are adapters for them and you can find them on Z1's website (when it comes back up if it's still down).

[bbytes]

I was thinking about just doing something like this.

http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

Manometers are a simple physics experiment really. No need to spend $100+ on something you can make for $2.

Z1 looks like a nice site, but they have very little in terms of my carburetors. I couldn't find the pilot fuel screw on there either.

[BigD_83]

Z1 is more than the website shows. Give them a call or email to ask about parts you don't see on there. They can most likely get you what you need.

[cowboyup3371]

I was thinking about just doing something like this.

http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

Manometers are a simple physics experiment really. No need to spend $100+ on something you can make for $2.

Z1 looks like a nice site, but they have very little in terms of my carburetors. I couldn't find the pilot fuel screw on there either.

How much of that science experiment are you really going to be willing to continue proving to get your bike to run correctly? Many have tried to make home made manometers and failed because of differences with fluid and how it is supposed to work. Do a titles only search for manometers and carb sync tool. You'll be surprised.

Honestly, I'd rather ride so I spent the $100 on a carbtune that I can do the job in 15 minutes-ish and be back on the road.

[bbytes]

I'm not seeing these negative posts. Although honestly, I didn't look past the first page of results.

The manometer I linked to is about as simple as it can get. It only shows you the difference across two carbs, not the vacuum on all 4 at once, but that's all that matters. Sync the middle two to each other, then sync the outside ones to the middle ones. Sure, it takes longer, but if you set it up correctly, you can very accurately measure the difference between two carbs.

Things like the carb tunes don't show you the difference, they show you each individual vacuum. While that is interesting information, its not needed for a sync. A sync is just matching vacuums, not necessarily setting the vacuums to a certain pressure. Since I don't really need to know the exact pressure, just the difference, I can set up a very accurate pressure differential gauge and tune my carbs for $2. Maybe if I had 5 motorcycles and did syncs every week would I justify the $100 carbtune, but I don't. I don't mind spending a little time building something to do exactly the same thing as the carb tune for much less money.

[Steve]

I was thinking about just doing something like this.
http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

If you read that carefully, it is for a two-cylinder bike. To do the job properly, you need to read all four cylinders at the same time.

Manometers are a simple physics experiment really. No need to spend $100+ on something you can make for $2.

No, they have actually progressed beyond the "experiment" phase and are in full production.

And, if you can actually build one that works and works WELL for $2, please share with us, we would all like to build one, too.

Hey, let's go extravagant, feel free to spend up to $10.

I will go a step farther. Build a manometer that works for a four-cylinder bike for $10 or less, document your build, show receipts and a video of it working, I will pay you every bit of that $10.

Z1 looks like a nice site, but they have very little in terms of my carburetors. I couldn't find the pilot fuel screw on there either.

How hard did you look? Click HERE to see what I found with a brief search for "mikuni fuel screw".

.

The manometer I linked to is about as simple as it can get. It only shows you the difference across two carbs, not the vacuum on all 4 at once, but that's all that matters. Sync the middle two to each other, then sync the outside ones to the middle ones. Sure, it takes longer, but if you set it up correctly, you can very accurately measure the difference between two carbs.

Hang on to that cherished little thought as you chase your tail trying to sync two at a time. Those of us that can see all four at once are amused and amazed at how making one adjustment affects ALL FOUR cylinders.

I will repeat my offer above. Shall we also set a reasonable time limit? How about the end of August?

Show me video of a working four-cylinder manometer that you have built for $10 or less, and I will reimburse you for every penny you spent. And you get to keep your manometer.

.