Shes a 82 GS 750T.
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Rear wheel bearing removal!
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Rear wheel bearing removal!
Ok folks- I searched the history on this and what I found says the hardest part is getting the wheel off, not in my case- I replaced the brakes, sprockets and riveted the chain and these are all that is left, no way can I get these two sets of bearings out of my hub. I soaked them in Kroil and tried tapping both directions to get some play but they aren't going anywhere. Manual calls for a a special tool but I don't have it and never needed one except a socket for all my other bearings. What is the trade secret?????
Shes a 82 GS 750T.Tags: None
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Use a hammer through screwdriver and give them a real smart smack, knocking from the inside out. Sometimes they are really stuck in there (but just hope nobody used green Loctite).79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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If you don't have one, buy one of these:
You can pick up a punch set at Ace Hardware or Harbor Freight for under $20. Using a hardened steel punch,a nd working from the inside of the opposite bearing, you can knock even the tightest fitting bearing out with three or four good whacks.sigpic
SUZUKI: 1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca
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Badooka
Yeah I had the punches but the bearings were so tight against the sleeve I couldn't get at it! I used a bearing puller from Auto zone- got me about an 1/8 of an inch clearance where I could use a punch and screw stick- funny how this was the hardest part. I thought the wheel was a cake walk.
Thanks for the assist!
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jwhelan65
A punch set as stated above is the only way to get them out. Firmly tap around side to side there is a good chance you will booger them up so plan on replacing them.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13969
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
I bought one of these a few years back (paid $40 I think). One of the best $40 I've spent... made getting the bearings out really easy. Less than 2 mins.
I have heard of people using something like this, get it nice & tight jammed in the bearing & then hit it with a long punch from the back side. (this is basically how the pit posse one works anyway).
1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
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TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Badooka
Those look great! Question, I did the 530 conversion and replaced my stock
sprockets with new ones. The front stock sprocket had a plate with three screws and the new one had the screw holes and came with a 6mm spacer.
I used the 6mm spacer but not the plate. I checked them both and didn't think the plate would fit with the spacer. Hooked it all up and it runs smooth.
What is that plate for?
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I ran into the same problem when popping out the two inner bearings on my rear wheel. There is a spacer between the two bearings, on one side you can push the spacer over enough to get to the bearing and punch it out. I forgot which side it was though easy enough to find it. Once I found it, only took 3 good smacks with hammer and punch and out it came.
Originally posted by Badooka View PostOk folks- I searched the history on this and what I found says the hardest part is getting the wheel off, not in my case- I replaced the brakes, sprockets and riveted the chain and these are all that is left, no way can I get these two sets of bearings out of my hub. I soaked them in Kroil and tried tapping both directions to get some play but they aren't going anywhere. Manual calls for a a special tool but I don't have it and never needed one except a socket for all my other bearings. What is the trade secret?????
Shes a 82 GS 750T.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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The plate on your old sprocket is probably the damper. Usually after market sprockets don't come with one. I'm doing the same conversion just use the 6mm spacer don't worry about the plate.
Originally posted by Badooka View PostThose look great! Question, I did the 530 conversion and replaced my stock
sprockets with new ones. The front stock sprocket had a plate with three screws and the new one had the screw holes and came with a 6mm spacer.
I used the 6mm spacer but not the plate. I checked them both and didn't think the plate would fit with the spacer. Hooked it all up and it runs smooth.
What is that plate for?sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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Badooka
That's what I thought. I was lucky enough to use one of my anvils to do the riveting of the chain. I don't know how a person could rivet that beast without it while it was slinked on the bike! The clip just didn't give me enough confidence. It rides a lot smoother and quieter now.Last edited by Guest; 07-15-2012, 06:44 PM.
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