The Haynes GSX750F manual agrees: “If the pressure is lower than the standard, than either the relief valve or regulator is stuck open, the oil pump is faulty, or there's other engine damage.”, (bearing oil clearances).
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Shimming oil pressure relief spring
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Originally posted by Steve View Post
The Haynes GSX750F manual agrees: “If the pressure is lower than the standard, than either the relief valve or regulator is stuck open, the oil pump is faulty, or there's other engine damage.”, (bearing oil clearances).1982 GS1100G- road bike
1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine)
1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane
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haggisbasher
The oil pressure spec for my bike is 43-78 psi. If the relief valve is undersprung and releasing pressure at say 50psi then surely no matter what the pump can do the operating pressure will never exceed 50psi. Based on the top end issues experienced in this engine design maybe it needs closer to the 78psi end of the range.
Hopefully by measuring the operating pressure stock and after shimming I can shed some light on the merits of this mod for everyone. I am expecting the pressure stock to be in the lower end of the range and the post shim pressure to be nearer the top of the range leading to better top end oiling. Equally I will not be too surprised to find that nothing changes.
On a good note I got the motor running last night so just have to figure out a pressure gauge attachment and teh experiment can begin.
Tom
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gearhead13
If you run heavy oil like 20w50 then the shimming would be more beneficial IMO. Thin oil would never allow the pressure high enough for the relief valve to open. Also worn bearings or a worn out pump wouldnt allow the pump to build pressure. Starting and revving it cold would have the relief open, but wouldnt come into play on a hot engine with thin oil, when you actually would need the extra oil pressure.
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Originally posted by haggisbasher View PostThe oil pressure spec for my bike is 43-78 psi. If the relief valve is undersprung and releasing pressure at say 50psi then surely no matter what the pump can do the operating pressure will never exceed 50psi. Based on the top end issues experienced in this engine design maybe it needs closer to the 78psi end of the range.
Originally posted by haggisbasher View PostHopefully by measuring the operating pressure stock and after shimming I can shed some light on the merits of this mod for everyone. I am expecting the pressure stock to be in the lower end of the range and the post shim pressure to be nearer the top of the range leading to better top end oiling. Equally I will not be too surprised to find that nothing changes.
Good to see that you are approaching this with an open mind, realizing that you might not see any change, let alone improvement.
Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostIf you run heavy oil like 20w50 then the shimming would be more beneficial IMO. Thin oil would never allow the pressure high enough for the relief valve to open.
Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostAlso worn bearings or a worn out pump wouldnt allow the pump to build pressure.
Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostStarting and revving it cold would have the relief open, but wouldnt come into play on a hot engine with thin oil, when you actually would need the extra oil pressure.
Regarding the "need" for high oil pressures: I have found it interesting that the only bike that has this oiling problem is a high oil pressure bike. I have not noted any such failures on the bikes with roller bearing cranks, where pressures are typically in the single digits after warm-up. What keeps those cams lubricated with 6 psi oil pressure? Certainly not pressure, must just be a lot of oil flow.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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haggisbasher
Good to see that you are approaching this with an open mind, realizing that you might not see any change, let alone improvement.
Tom
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Originally posted by Steve View Post...
Regarding the "need" for high oil pressures: I have found it interesting that the only bike that has this oiling problem is a high oil pressure bike. I have not noted any such failures on the bikes with roller bearing cranks, where pressures are typically in the single digits after warm-up. What keeps those cams lubricated with 6 psi oil pressure? Certainly not pressure, must just be a lot of oil flow.
.NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS
Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R
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Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View PostTo have good flow, you need higher pressure to start with.
Or thinner oil.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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