Newb mistake, used the wrong oil!

[Guest]

So I made a mistake and put regular 10w-40 motor oil in my bike when I changed the oil about a week and a half ago. It's the "energy conserving" kind which I now know is BAD BAD BAD. I didn't know that you were not supposed to use this type of oil.

So I'm going to go pick up some proper motorcycle oil and change the oil again. I've only ridden about 7 miles around the neighborhood on the bad oil. Haven't noticed any shifting issues so I hope I haven't affected anything. My question is: do I need to change the filter as well? The manual says 2.6q for a normal oil change, 3.4q if changing the filter (this actually surprises me, is there really that much more oil draining out when you pull the filter?).

I don't want to buy 4 quarts if I don't have to. Thoughts?

And yes, you can all point and laugh now I'm just glad I realized my mistake before I rode it a lot.

[7981GS]

Why would you want to leave any (besides what hides in every corner/pocket inside the engine) of the other oil in it to save a couple of bucks?

Eric

[exzachtly1]

You're right, I don't really mind buying the extra oil I just didn't know if I had to. Would you recommend replacing the filter too?

[7981GS]

You might get by with simply draining the filter for a period of time.
If you can keep it from getting dirty.

Eric

[exzachtly1]

Then I guess I replace it

It's only 5 bucks after all. Can't believe I did this

[7981GS]

Are you going to be replacing with a form of Rotella or something else?

Eric

[exzachtly1]

I was thinking this valvoline oil. Should I use the Rotella instead? Is this a better choice?

[Steve]

Please tell me what brand of oil you used.

Until now, I have not heard of ANY 10w-40 oil being the "energy conserving" type, they have all been -20 or -30 oils, but no -40 or -50.

Are you SURE it was "energy conserving"? Did it have those words in the API "donut" on the back panel?

.

[exzachtly1]

I used this oil

Scroll down in the description, you will see this:

Standards: API SM/SL, ILSAC GF-4 & GF-3, Energy Conserving

[Nessism]

Rotella is good stuff, and way cheaper than motorcycle oil. I'd remove the filter and dump out any oil inside, then replace the filter and button up the engine. The shaft drive 650 has a second oil drain location, under the secondary transmission gears. Be sure to drain both areas before adding fresh oil.

[exzachtly1]

Thanks guys, will be doing this right away after work. Will probably use the Rotella 15w40 unless anyone has a reason to use something else.

[exzachtly1]

The manual calls for applying thread lock cement to the nuts on the oil filter when putting it back on. Is that necessary? Is Loctite blue appropriate for this application? There's no mention of doing this on Bikecliff's oil / filter change tutorial.

[ptexotik]

Thanks guys, will be doing this right away after work. Will probably use the Rotella 15w40 unless anyone has a reason to use something else.

You got it (it turns out there's some juices (additives) which our wet clutches really like (and are missing from today's regular oils.) And the stuff is cheap!
We call that ... winfinity.

[7981GS]

The manual calls for applying thread lock cement to the nuts on the oil filter when putting it back on. Is that necessary? Is Loctite blue appropriate for this application? There's no mention of doing this on Bikecliff's oil / filter change tutorial.

No. But you might want to use NEW lock washers.

Eric

[ptexotik]

The manual calls for applying thread lock cement to the nuts on the oil filter when putting it back on. Is that necessary? Is Loctite blue appropriate for this application? There's no mention of doing this on Bikecliff's oil / filter change tutorial.

Never used it. Just a cross-pattern tightening procedure (but NOT too tight!) and you should be golden.