Front Master Plunger Removal?

[gs1000emt]

Ok so i do have to clear that second hole too. I'll hit it with some cleaner and try to get a piece of wire brush through there. Thanks

[1_v8_merc]

I tried everything on mine and this is the only way it came out.

Yep. I don't even waste my time with penetrating fluid. I just drill it, cut it, torch it or whatever it takes. I have too many projects for patience, lol.

[gs1000emt]

Still cant get through that little pin hole. I cut a piece off my wire brush and dug, soaked in parts cleaner, hit with carb cleaner, dug more, blew out with air compressor but still cannot get through that little hole. Any other ideas?

[Gregory]

If you dont have the tool..... I removed my circlip with some small hemostats. It took a few tries, but it worked.

The repair kit parts I bought from PowerSportsPlus.com had the wrong sized plunger and circlip, and they have been unresponsive in getting me the right kit.

My old plunger looked OK, So I put everything back together using the old plunger and circlip.

Now the brake wont stiffen up and air swishes into the reservoir when pumping the brake.

[Gregory]

The repair kit parts I bought from PowerSportsPlus.com had the wrong sized plunger and circlip, and they have been unresponsive in getting me the right kit. .

Update on PowersportsPlus.com. It took a while but they fianlly made it right.

After sending this post to them they did contact me back and took care of getting me the new part... and although they said they dont have the ability to send me the confirmation reciept (i hope) reimbursing me for the return part.

[chuck hahn]

Look at the bore of that master before you rebuild it..look for any ptiing or scarring in there of any kind..if it looks sketchy it probably is and will fail you right off the jump.

[duaneage]

Buy can of denatured alcohol. Use this to clean with as it dissolves the crud, evaporates, and does not contain water. Keep water away from the MC as it will cause rust.

Clean the bore with a 12 gauge brass bore brush. it also will clean the entrance where the c clip goes really well. The brass is soft will not scratch it.

Replace the bowl o ring if you have a removable one, otherwise clean the sight glass well and the threads for the cap. I run a tap carefully through to clean them.

When you assemble use new parts, don't reuse anything.

Use brake fluid to reassemble and lube everything. I do this over a metal paint tray because it's messy.

WEAR EYE PROTECTION. Blasting air or working with the spring will launch brake fluid which is really bad for your eyes.
Make sure you assemble it all correctly or it won't pump up.
Clean the brake switch and replace if worn.

When you go to prime it use a brake bolt with a series of washers to seal off the end. You should be able to get a rock hard lever on the bench after a few works of the lever. If not, or if it leaks past the boot, you did something wrong and have to go back in.

If all these steps seems like a lot of trouble, remember what this part does.

[gs1000emt]

Well the master main body is pretty cruddy still inside. Cant find a brass bore brush anywhere. Still cannot get that second hole clear either. Bout to give up. Where can I buy another master cylinder body?

[Gregory]

I just took everything apart on mine and left it in berrymans overnight, then cleaned with carb cleaner. Repainted everything and put in the rebuiild kit and it seems to work ok now after using a friends oil vacuum to bleed it.