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Broken Plug -
It is indeed a bad day - I was changing spark plugs on my KZ, and the last one simply broke - the threads are left in the head - I hit it with PB Blaster about 10 minutes ago, and I'll try a little heat and a #5 easy out - wish me luck !
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This is probably stating the obvious... but make sure your easy out doesn't break off the ground wire from the end of the plug threads. That would make a stinky problem immensely stinky. Good luck ,and go slowly and patiently.sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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Montanaman
It's not getting better - I let it soak for an hour, the #5 easy out grabbed nice, but no go - I tweaked it until I was flexing the easy out as much as I dared, and it didn't budge. I then adapted my 3/8" Makita cordless impact driver on it, and rattled away, and no go. Tomorrow I'll try to adapt a 1/2" air impact and see if it'll budge it -
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JayWB
It's hard to tell from your picture, but it looks like the entire threaded portion of the plug is still in the head, including the seat. The seat will seal the threads and keep any penetrating oil from getting to them.
You may have to pry the outer most part of the threads away from the head to allow oil to get into the threaded part. Unless you can break this seal you'll never get any lubricant into it. Take as much time as it takes, you definitely want to be patient with this.
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You will need A LOT of heat because that much aluminum absorbs heat real fast. The thing is to get it as hot as you can so the head expands and helps release the hold.
Second, get a left threaded bolt thats just slightly bigger than the hole and see if you can kinda thread it in there and use a socket to turn it out.
What cylinder is it in?
And to add to what Lynn said...also be careful not to damage the flat area around the hole that the plug gasket seals to.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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PAULJAC47
Tap the largest torx you can get into the thread portion they grip better than easy outs and will not shear off,you can then put a ratchet on the torx and work in and out gradually,this is a proven technique in the auto trade in the Uk,Good luck...
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Montanaman
Hit it with the CP Imact wrench at 1/2 speed, then full bore, and the plug didn't move, and after a minute the #5 easy out broke the top off -
So the head is off, at the machine shop, and Mr. Kawasaki will get new gaskets & cam cover plugs, and new piston rings while we're in there.
The cylinders were in good shape, but about 1/3 of the ring was worn down and rounded just a little, so the cylinders are being lightly honed, and stock pistons put back in.
Imagine if I had ruined that head casting - the '82 Gpz was one year only design, they changed it in '83, and the '81 had Bosch FI ports cast into it's head, and it's the canadian bike to boot, with no us emissions ports in the head - I probably would have had to scoured Canada to find another head -
Expensive lesson - the next time you leave a plug in a head for 3 decades, and it's stuck, maybe run it a while and get it hot before you put the plug socket on it -
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Using some anti-seize doesn't hurt.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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Originally posted by PAULJAC47 View PostTap the largest torx you can get into the thread portion they grip better than easy outs and will not shear off,you can then put a ratchet on the torx and work in and out gradually,this is a proven technique in the auto trade in the Uk,Good luck...sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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Originally posted by tatu View Post+1 on this, also an allen key hammered into it will do the same, the advantage is that the taper of the easyout doesn't push it harder into the walls of the thread.1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Originally posted by Agemax View Posthammering an allen key into it would have the same effect, worse even as you would distort the plug threads into a six point wedgesigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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