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Crankshaft end seal leak on 1100 Kat

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    Crankshaft end seal leak on 1100 Kat

    I noticed that oil was leaking out of the right hand side of my crankcase on my 1100 Kat.
    I expect it comes from the crankshaft end seal
    Could the issue come from too much blow by through the cylinders?
    I noticed that the engine spins very easily on the starter and I suspect that the rings are not seated correctly?
    This is probably due to the fact that the engine had not been running for at least 5 maybe 10 years?
    Wrt to the end seal can it be replaced without opening the cases or is this hopefull thinking?
    sigpicJohn Kat
    My bikes: CB 77, GS 1000 ST Cafe Racer with GSXR 1052 engine, GS 1000 ST, XR 41 Replica with GS 1085 engine,
    GS 1100 SZ Katana with GS 1135 EFF engine, KTM Superduke 1290 R 2020

    #2
    The seal can be replaced without splitting the cases, BUT, splitting the cases IS the best way to change the seal. Ray.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Ray!
      I'll probably do a leak down test first to determine what needs to be done on the cylinders and pistons.
      If there's no problem there, I'll try the quick and dirty seal exchange.
      If the engine must be opened, then I'll do the proper job.
      sigpicJohn Kat
      My bikes: CB 77, GS 1000 ST Cafe Racer with GSXR 1052 engine, GS 1000 ST, XR 41 Replica with GS 1085 engine,
      GS 1100 SZ Katana with GS 1135 EFF engine, KTM Superduke 1290 R 2020

      Comment


        #4
        Freeze the seal and warm the seal pocket a little.
        Grease the seal and use a large socket and tap it in.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          Pay attention to the rotation arrow on the new seal.

          It looks like it's backwards when you install it. If you install it what looks like the "right" way around, it will leak.

          Guess how I learned this... go on, guess.


          You can push the new seal in with a couple of washers, a nut, a large socket, and a long 8mm bolt. Much easier and less likely to cause problems than trying to drive it into place with a hammer.
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          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by bwringer View Post
            You can push the new seal in with a couple of washers, a nut, a large socket, and a long 8mm bolt. Much easier and less likely to cause problems than trying to drive it into place with a hammer.
            This is a great idea! I did it this way the last time and the seal didn't keep going cockeyed with the tapping method.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment

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