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    #1

    oil in valve shim area?

    Hi, I'm doing my first valve adjustment and I just have one quick question . . . There are varying amounts of oil pooled in the areas around the valve shims . . . some are almost empty, some have quite a bit of oil in them . . . normal?

    Thanks!
    Tags: None
    #2
    Originally posted by rippledub View Post
    Hi, I'm doing my first valve adjustment and I just have one quick question . . . There are varying amounts of oil pooled in the areas around the valve shims . . . some are almost empty, some have quite a bit of oil in them . . . normal?

    Thanks!
    Yes that's usual.
    sigpic

    Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

    Comment

      #3
      Yes. . . . .

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment

        #4
        I use opieces of paper towel to absorb the oil a bit so it doesnt splash or otherwise run off the head and get on the engine.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment

          #5
          I bought a turkey baster to remove the oil. Haven't tried it yet. I think its a good idea to have oil in there when you button it up.
          sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

          Comment

            #6
            Thanks guys.

            Comment

              #7
              Yes on a dab of oil after you do the adjustments, but its sloppy and makes a mess as you are doing the process.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment

                #8
                What's real fun is when the tool slips, and the shim gets slapped back down, flinging oil in your eye. Yeah!

                Comment

                  #9
                  HA HA...you too!!!
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    A lot of people here do not like that tool! Makes me want to try the Zip Tie method, especially as I have not bought the Suzuki tool yet.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      The tool likes to slip off the rim of the bucket if you dont depress it perfectly true to the cam. I just use a flat tip to press in on the side of the tool as I rotate it down..it doesnt slip off that way.
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        good tip . . . thanks

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I ordered "The Tool", I was reading the zip tie method, and I didn't like the idea that carbon deposits could get dislodged, which could make your second measurement with a new shim possibly off? However . . . I was sitting around today, and realized I just needed to get clearance measurements, and shim sizes, so I can order some shims. I am going to rebuild the head before I install any new shims, therefore It wouldn't matter if any crud got dislodged.

                          Since "The Tool" will be a few days till it arrives, I tried the zip ties, and it works just fine, though it wasn't always easy to get tie started in valve opening. I had to fiddle a while on a couple of them.

                          So here is what I got:
                          Cyl. #1 intake ~ .06mm clearance, with a 2.65mm shim
                          exhaust ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.55mm shim
                          Cyl. #2 intake ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.55mm shim
                          exhaust ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.50mm shim
                          Cyl. #3 intake ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.55mm shim
                          exhaust ~ .09mm clearance with a 2.45mm shim
                          Cyl. #4 intake ~ <.038 mm clearance with a 2.6mm shim
                          exhaust ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.45mm shim

                          The .10mm clearances could be anywhere from .10mm to .14mm (my feeler gauges jump from .10 to .15)


                          The #4 intake is tighter than my .038 feeler gauge (my smallest)

                          If I buy (2) 2.60mm shims, and (1) 2.5mm shim I should be able to shuffle shims to open #4 intake by .05, and close down all the rest of them by .05 (Leaving #1 intake alone of course)

                          Sound about right anyone?

                          Comment

                            #14
                            If your gonna rebuild the head..that will include recutting the valve seats, having the rough looking valves refaced..or better yet new replacements..so what you have there now is of no use.

                            Once all the head work is done, then reinstall the shims in the same spot they came out of ( mark them as you remove them ) and then youll have realistic numbers to work with.


                            If your gonna ride it the summer, then yes get the right shims..for now.
                            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              gotcha

                              So if I decided to ride for the summer, do my numbers look like a good starting point? I realize since some clearances could be as High as 1.4mm, I might ultimately need to bump up two sizes?

                              I wish I could just button it up and ride, but there is enough oil leaking out of the engine while I ride to make me not happy. So I thought as long as I am going to go at the head gaskets, I better check out the whole top end.

                              I am a newbie, just in case you hadn't already figured that out! The bike is in great shape, stock, and complete, very little corrosion anywhere, seems to have been basically well maintained, and kept indoors. I haven't even found any stuck screws/nuts/bolts yet. So I am crossing my fingers I can just clean, lap, hone and put back together. A guy can dream, can't he?

                              Is honing what I am thinking? Cleans up cylinders, and I would be able to use old rings if they are in spec.? Or is it a bad idea to try to use old rings?

                              I did order new valve stem oil seals. (and every other seal/gasket/o-ring in top) Hoping guides are ok.

                              Comment

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