Any ideas on how to get this out? I have the replacement for it already, but I'm worried this is gonna be a tough one.
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Broken valve cover bolt...
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Broken valve cover bolt...
Took off the valve cover for the fist time since owning my bike to do a valve clearance check. I always knew one of the bolts was missing, and now I have confirmed my fear that this bolt is broken off. I've soaked it with PB blaster for now but I don't know where to go from here... there's nothing to get a bite on. Here's a picture:
Any ideas on how to get this out? I have the replacement for it already, but I'm worried this is gonna be a tough one.Tags: None
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I had one like that once. I took a small bit, drilled into the broken bolt just a bit and took an ease out and waaalaaa, come out no fuss.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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Removing broken bolts
Get yourself a set of Grabits or some name similar.
I used these and they worked awesome, these have a left hand drill bit on one end to make the hole, sometines the screw will come out just drilling.
The other end has the extractor, be careful with it and you will be fine.
I have removed 4 very tough broken screws/bolts with mine and I'm very impressed with them.
Do not use a convential screw extractor as they can break very easily and then you will remember more swear words than is good for you.
2018 Honda Africa Twin AS
2013 DR 650 Grey, sold 1981 GS 650E Silver,
1980 GS1000ST Blue & White, X2
2012 DL650 Vstrom Foxy Orange, in storage
1981 CT110 X2 "Postie Bikes" Gone to a New Home.
2002 BMW 1150 GS Blue & White - Sold
1975 BMW R90/6 Black - Sold 1984 GS1150EF Sold
1982 BMW R100 Africa trip, Stolen - Recovered- Sold
1977-1980 Suzuki GS550, GS1000E, GS1000S GSX750, GSX1100,s
Hondas ST90, CR125 CB175 , CB350 CB750, NSU Quickly, Yamaha RD's 350/400,
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exzachtly1
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Originally posted by Agemax View Posta good soak, apply a bit of heat and use a left handed drill bit. it will whizz right out1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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exzachtly1
Picked up the grabit "pro" set and I am having no luck with it. The big issue is that this bolt is right under the frame, so I am pretty much unable to get to it straight on. Have to come at it at a slight angle, and I've only succeeded in putting a bunch of useless ruts in it that are making it impossible to get the thing centered.
I am going to try picking up a longer extension for my drill and hope that helps me get a straighter shot at it. I don't have a long enough extension to clear the chuck past the frame.
I didn't have any leaks before so I'm wondering if I should just quit while I'm ahead and put the thing back together.
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never give up. have you tried heating the area with a blow torch? give it a good tap with a centre punch as well. this will 1; give you a mark for the drill and 2; the shock of tapping it can help crack the hold on the threads of the bolt in the head.1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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exzachtly1
Originally posted by Agemax View Postnever give up. have you tried heating the area with a blow torch? give it a good tap with a centre punch as well. this will 1; give you a mark for the drill and 2; the shock of tapping it can help crack the hold on the threads of the bolt in the head.
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Originally posted by exzachtly1 View PostI did heat it up initially, will be doing so again. The center punch is a good idea, i actually do plan to pick one of those up along with my drill chuck extension. It's just such an awkward angle to get at! Why couldn't the P.O. have broken one of the easy ones to get to
just think of the satisfaction you will have when you get that sucker out, instead of giving up, you can grab a beer and say YAYYYYYYYYYYY I did it.......1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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I be inclined to try to "slot" it if I could find a small enough dremmel wheel,
then I'd torch the outside of the aluminum, then I'd take a impact screwdriver and try to back it out. That is if I could get one in that area.sigpic
Steve
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
_________________
'79 GS1000EN
'82 GS1100EZ
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Since you say it is difficult to drill straight into the bolt due to the frame being in the way, I would weld a "nub" onto the bolt, and then use a vice-grip plier to back it out, or you could even weld a nut onto the "nub" and use a spanner. The heat from welding will hopefully break the "bond" free.
Good luck!1981 GS850G "Blue Magic" (Bike Of The Month April 2009)
1981 GS1000G "Leo" (Bike Of The Month August 2023)
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Originally posted by bellucci View PostYou guys are going at it all wrong... take the motor out of the frame and it will be easier to get at it. And you will have a chance to really get to know your bike...(:
Curt
why not just take the head off?1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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exzachtly1
Not sure if my confidence level is high enough yet to remove the engine or the head... hah.
Bugger is really in there though. Got a 12" extension for my drill and a center punch which has helped a LOT. Got a good start to a hole there. Except now, either the drill is too weak or the grabit is not strong enough to drill deep enough. It gets to a certain point and then I can't make any progress and the hole is still shallow... and my crappy black and decker drill just dies when I push as hard as I think I need to
Maybe time to borrow a better drill from a neighbor... or try the slot idea. Oh and I managed to miss once or twice when using the center punch, put a nice little ding in the cylinder head. I don't think it will be a problem though. What a fun day, lol.
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