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    Front Forks and case finish.

    On my recently purchased gS1100 the front forks look like there is a coating of clear or something that is weathering off, but it shiny under it. I can scratch it with my finger nail. Is this a factory protective coating or what. Best way to remove ? Also when guys do their restore on engine covers how do they get their case sides all looking brand new shiny. Mine has a few spots of disclororation, mothers polish did not remove it.

    #2
    Yes they are clearcoated. I just use regualer spray can paint remover. But what youll find is dark spots where the other stuff is missing.

    As for the shiney parts...I got a industrial parts buffer and I use the right rouges..I can do an enter bike from scratch in about 7 to 8 hrs.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      look at this thread to see how to sort your forks out,
      Mr Londonboards fine resto blog.

      The restoration project for my dad's 1984 Suzuki GS1100 G.The bike was shipped to the UK and is now in Canterbury for restoration - August 2012.


      the cases are pretty much the same to do except they take a lot longer to do, depending on how bad they are to start with and what degree of finish you are looking for.
      a quality show finish on the cases takes an awful long time, but a nice "clean" finish takes up much less time.

      do NOT clear coat them after polishing, you will regret it...........
      1978 GS1085.

      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Agemax View Post
        look at this thread to see how to sort your forks out,
        Mr Londonboards fine resto blog.

        The restoration project for my dad's 1984 Suzuki GS1100 G.The bike was shipped to the UK and is now in Canterbury for restoration - August 2012.


        the cases are pretty much the same to do except they take a lot longer to do, depending on how bad they are to start with and what degree of finish you are looking for.
        a quality show finish on the cases takes an awful long time, but a nice "clean" finish takes up much less time.

        do NOT clear coat them after polishing, you will regret it...........
        Thanks for the tip. Do you mean do not clear coat the cases. That guy in the link about fork polishing was going to clear them after his polish. Maybe ok to clear coat the forks but not the cases?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by alhntr View Post
          Thanks for the tip. Do you mean do not clear coat the cases. That guy in the link about fork polishing was going to clear them after his polish. Maybe ok to clear coat the forks but not the cases?
          that is up to him if you want to. trouble is you will not replicate factory clear coat and in a short space of time it will yellow, crack and flake off. then you will end up with the same state they were in before.

          once cleaned and polished it is far easier to just give them a good polish by hand every now and again to keep the shine looking nice.
          1978 GS1085.

          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

          Comment


            #6
            Got it thanks for the tip. Hope I don't sound silly, I have been posting lots of questions during my bike check over on all subjects and am going thru a learning curve. Every one has been great.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by alhntr View Post
              Got it thanks for the tip. Hope I don't sound silly, I have been posting lots of questions during my bike check over on all subjects and am going thru a learning curve. Every one has been great.
              its better to ask and do it right, rather than guess and get it wrong. could save you a whole heap of trouble by not asking..........
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment


                #8
                Clearcoat

                A couple of decades ago I stripped my fork legs and engine cases, made note of the factory sanding marks, cleaned up the corrosion using aluminum jelly, sandpaper and steel wool. Then after making sure they were CLEAN they were clear coated using Glasrit, the paint still looks wet and is just about bullet proof and replicates the original finish.
                1980 GS1000E

                Comment


                  #9
                  I just used steel wool, didn't seem to matter whether it was coarse or fine. This clutch cover was done, takes awhile to work off that old dried out powdery clear coat. Once done though, it takes "frequent" going over to keep them sparkly.


                  Now this clutch cover needs to be done badly, it's all discolored, powdery, dried out, etc. But I don't want to do it................. yet.
                  Someday, "maybe"
                  What I do know is once I do get that old clear coat off of it, it will be so shiny and bright!
                  sigpic
                  Steve
                  "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
                  _________________
                  '79 GS1000EN
                  '82 GS1100EZ

                  Comment


                    #10
                    When you think you have them shiny, hit them with a Mr Clean magic eraser with a touch of MAAS polish and have your sunglasses close by!!!!!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      That is one nice looking shiny red 1100, you can eat off it. Great bike.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by sedelen View Post

                        Nice pic; the ED black doesn't need polishing but it has it's downsides. Black is hard to keep clean.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          To clear cote or not

                          There are pros and cons I guess.

                          The finish that I like is a brushed metal or satin finish to the alloy. No original part ever left the factory with a mirror finish. I achieved this:



                          in about 1.5 hours of not too strenuous labour.

                          The problem you end up with is that in that raw state you only have to look at it and it becomes scratched or stained. Greasy oily finger marks will not come off and handling the item becomes problematic.

                          This weekend I have experimented with a clear cote lacquer and I can now handle the items again without getting finger marks all over them and risking scratching them:



                          I look at the clear as a primary protection which enables me to work with the item more confidently. It is quite possible that the lacquer will fail and that I will have to do it again sometime. But it is quite good fun (no really!). And I think I prefer it to polishing.

                          Greetings
                          Last edited by londonboards; 05-12-2013, 06:24 PM.
                          Richard
                          sigpic
                          GS1150 EF bought Jun 2015
                          GS1150 ES bought Mar 2014: ES Makeover Thread AND blog: Go to the Blog
                          GS1100 G (2) bought Aug 2013: Road Runner Project Thread AND blog: Go to the Blog
                          GS1100 G (1) Dad bought new 1985 (in rebuild) see: Dad's GS1100 G Rebuild AND blog: Go to the Blog
                          Previously owned: Suzuki GS750 EF (Canada), Suzuki GS750 (UK)(Avatar circa 1977), Yamaha XT500, Suzuki T500, Honda XL125, Garelli 50
                          Join the United Kingdom (UK) Suzuki GS Facebook Group here

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by londonboards View Post
                            There are pros and cons I guess.

                            The finish that I like is a brushed metal or satin finish to the alloy. No original part ever left the factory with a mirror finish. I achieved this:



                            in about 1.5 hours of not too strenuous labour.

                            The problem you end up with is that in that raw state you only have to look at it and it becomes scratched or stained. Greasy oily finger marks will not come off and handling the item becomes problematic.

                            This weekend I have experimented with a clear cote lacquer and I can now handle the items again without getting finger marks all over them and risking scratching them:



                            I look at the clear as a primary protection which enables me to work with the item more confidently. It is quite possible that the lacquer will fail and that I will have to do it again sometime. But it is quite good fun (no really!). And I think I prefer it to polishing.

                            Greetings
                            Nice work but why experiment with clears? The odds are not great based on the consensus here at GSR. I'm lazy and don't mind doing the work once but don't want the recurring maintenance given the ocean climate I live in. Por-15 has some excellent products including a clear with specific treatments for prepping the metal. I have also used the same prep with automotive grade clears (I.e. PPG) coats for paint topcoats. I have generally done a satin finish but, I also did a polished brass gas cap with the PPG.

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