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1982 1100 E - TEMPERATURE Question

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    #16
    Not looking to start another Oil Thread, but high sump temps are why I use synthetic oil. Synthetic thins less at high temps, so it protects better when the oil gets really hot.

    Regarding Jim's claim that the stator heats up the oil significantly, I have both a shunt and series R/R, and plan to do some comparison testing this summer. It's hard for me to imagine that the R/R is running hotter than the engine oil, but proof is in the testing. Coming soon...
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #17
      Proof is in the PUDDING Ed...problem is they dont specify what flavor gives the best proof.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        Not looking to start another Oil Thread, but high sump temps are why I use synthetic oil. Synthetic thins less at high temps, so it protects better when the oil gets really hot.

        Regarding Jim's claim that the stator heats up the oil significantly, I have both a shunt and series R/R, and plan to do some comparison testing this summer. It's hard for me to imagine that the R/R is running hotter than the engine oil, but proof is in the testing. Coming soon...
        Ed, I have repeated this several time that the temperature changes appear to be most with big block engines. Specifically a 1075 will not see the same temperature drop as the amount on an 1166. I have already posted my findings.

        If you do this on a 1000 I'm not sure you will see as much but I'm sure you will construct a suitable test. rereading Wheat dogs thread, he has a stock 1100 and he got about 20-30 degree reduction so that is probably an upper bound for the smaller engine.

        Posplayr
        HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR A Warm Running 16V GS1100/1150. For you naysayers out there. There is a significant temperature drop if you are running stock in the 250-270 degF range (My 1166 went down to 210-220 degF max).

        Installed Compufire RR - Way Cool!!
        With stock shunt RR engine temp was usually around 200-210 deg F. Installed Compufire Series RR per Posplayr's tutorial and am showing large engine temp drop. My '83 1100E temp gauge now has the needle showing just above the first line at the 160 deg F end of the gauge. 180 deg maybe?? Anyhoo, the install was not hard and mucho gratis to Posplayr for the instructions. The Compufire works better than an oil cooler. Hoping this allows long stator life as well since it appears it's no longer smoking hot.

        Mike
        P.S. Nice test to confirm the 210 degF level.

        I think I used a cooking thermometer
        Last edited by posplayr; 05-19-2013, 02:52 PM.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Frank Z. View Post
          Thanks, Steve. So, maybe get a reading close to the sending unit on casing is the way to go(?) Have access to a good quality infrared thermo and will give 'er a shot this week... when TX temps hit a balmy 100°
          Remove the oil fill cap and shoot down inside of there, easiest way to get an internal reading.
          sigpic
          Steve
          "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
          _________________
          '79 GS1000EN
          '82 GS1100EZ

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