GS 450L oil leak blues.

[Big Rich]

I believe it will drop all the way to the ground (assuming you're on the center stand). You will have to either unbolt the shocks and have the swingarm drop, or unbolt the exhaust at the passenger peg mounts & header mounts. You shouldn't have to actually take the exhaust off, just loose enough for it to sag below the rear axle.

Personally, I'd go for the shock mounts.

[DacMaddy]

Alright thanks for the help man! I will let you know how it goes! Wish me luck

[Steve]

I'm not really sure how the swingarm works; if I unbolt the top mounts would the wheel just fall to the ground? Would it affect the chain adjustment not having the shocks mounted?

The swingarm ... well ... swings.

It forms one leg of a triangle that keeps the rear wheel located. The frame is a second leg, the shocks are the third leg. Because the shocks can move, the swing arm can swing, allowing just the wheel to move, not the whole bike.

By removing the shocks (either end, whichever is more convenient), the swingarm will allow the wheel to drop to the ground. It will be easier to do that if you lift a bit on the wheel to remove the load from the mounts. That will allow the shocks to slide right off, then lower the wheel in a controlled manner.

Yes, it will greatly affect the chain tension, but you will not be riding the bike in that condition, so it won't really matter. When you lift the wheel back up to put the shocks back in place, the chain will be right where it was when you started. Of course, if you remove the axle or loosen the chain adjusters, your wheel alignment and/or chain tension can be different.

.

[DacMaddy]

Ahh, that cleared up quite a bit, thanks! So if I used that method I'd have to adjust the chain, then remount the shocks, and if it's wrong redo that process over and over? I guess just taking the exhaust off would be easier. Are the two pipes connected or can I loosen just the right side?

[Steve]

That depends on just what you are trying to do.

If you are wanting to remove the wheel to change a tire, loosen the chain adjusters, loosen the axle nut, pull the shocks. You can then pull the axle out and roll the wheel out.

If you are simply wanting to adjust the chain, there is no need to remove the shocks, just loosen the axle and adjusters and do your thing.

.

[DacMaddy]

Ah I'm just trying to adjust the chain, but the problem is my lowered bike won't allow me to reach the axle nut with a ratcheting wrench because the exhaust can is in the way.

[Nessism]

Ah I'm just trying to adjust the chain, but the problem is my lowered bike won't allow me to reach the axle nut with a ratcheting wrench because the exhaust can is in the way.

That's why they invented spanners?

[DacMaddy]

Do they make spanners that measure torque? Or is there another way to measure torque other then a torque wrench?

[Nessism]

If you need to measure torque get a crowsfoot. You shouldn't have to torque the axle nut though. The Suzuki tool kit that comes with the bike has a nice axle nut spanner (and no torque wrench).

[DacMaddy]

Oh ok I was just worried because the Clymer manual gave specific torque ratings for that but. Thanks for the help! :-)

[Steve]

There are some people that will obsess and claim that they torque EVERY fastener on the bike. For some items, yes, it's rather critical that the proper torque is applied. However, after using a torque wrench a couple of times to properly set a fastener, you can develop a 'feel' for what is proper and get rather close without it.

Probably the hardest part of that process is realizing just how LITTLE torque is proper for some fasteners. One example is the cylinder head cover bolts (or just about any M6 x 1.0 bolt). The proper torque range for them is 6.0 - 7.5 lb/ft, and you can just about do that with an oily screwdriver handle. The first time I used a torque wrench on those bolts, I realized that I had probably been wrenching them down to 15-20, just trying to get them "tight".

What I would suggest for your axle bolt is to pull the shocks, let the wheel drop to the ground so you can access the axle nut. Use a torque wrench a few times to get the feel, then put it back together and feel comfortable with the spanners.

.

[DacMaddy]

Ahh I see, that's actually a handy tip! I eventually was able to get a motorcycle lift and jack it up. I've loosened the axle nut with the help of some crow's foot wrenches and tightened my adjustment nuts, only to find that they were a little too tight. So I started loosening them but all of a sudden the bolt was moving but the adjustment notches weren't. The frame won't go any looser, and my chain is too tight. What happened? My rear shock springs seem to be moving up and down with about 2 inches of free play. Could this be the cause of my adjustment not loosening anymore?

[DacMaddy]

Alright, here's a couple things I've done to try to pull the swingarm back. First, I used a rubber mallet. Next, I took the shocks off and let the swingarm hang to its lowest point, where the swingarm touches the frame. Then I tried just straight pulling on the rear axle. I'm at a loss, does anyone have any other ideas? Basically I over tightened my chain and it won't loosen.

[pete]

If your adjustment is too tight, you need to get the rear axle to move forwards, not backwards.

The swingarm itself doesn't move forwards/backwards (or if it does that's a big problem!), only the axle.

You will probably need the shocks on to hold the swingarm still to get the leverage you need.

Loosen the adjusters right off, push the wheel forwards and that should move the axle forward, then try again.

[DacMaddy]

Oh man I feel pretty dumb haha. That worked out perfectly, thanks! I'll be taking it out for a spin tomorrow. I should get my intake boots in on Friday so I'm still waiting!