Change your brake fluid.

[Brendan W]

I like changing the fluid on bikes. It's soooo easy. You can stand there pouring in the top watching it run out the bottom till clear. One squeeze is usually enough to get it going. None of this buddy system, or pressure bottles.
Every time the brakes feel better. I am as sure as I can be that no air came out the front calipers but the feel is harder - the way I expect braid to feel. I cannot explain it but, seriously, keep changing the fluid.

One of the bleed screws was blocked with rust. A 1/16 drill bit spun by fingertip cleared it.

Now I just have to figure out how there are new pads on the front but the piston boots are missing and why people want €4 for one bleed screw dust cap

[Steve]

If your fluid is free-flowing, I am thinking that you have some problems with your master cylinder.

The seal on the piston in the master cylinder should prevent free-flow. It seals the system to provide pressure when you squeeze the lever, and will deform slightly upon return, if necessary, but should not free-flow.

.

[dorkburger]

I wouldn't call it free flowing, but when I bleed brakes on anything, I generally open the bleeders, keep the M/C topped off, and let gravity work its magic. When I switched to braided lines 2 seasons ago, I found the fluid in the M/C quite cruddy and cloudy. Braided lines and new fluid equalled much better braking and feel.

[TooManyToys]

Actually when a master cylinder is fully returned to it's rest position the compensating port(s) will be open and you do have free flow from the reservoir through the bleeders.

Not any different from having a brake hose split or disconnected and all the fluid drains from the master.


Gravity bleeding is very acceptable way of bleeding the brakes hydraulics and oe I often do when I'm working on vehicles by myself.

[bwringer]

A bottle of the blue ATE brake fluid just adds an extra dimension of enjoyment to this process as the ganky old fluid gets replaced by the groovy cool blue juice.

But yes... change your brake fluid every couple of years, people. Getting all that crud out is very satisfying. If it makes your brakes work better, you probably waited a bit too long -- next time do a flush a bit sooner.

Edit:
Dagnabbit, the dadburn nanny state commie gubbamint idjits just screwed this up for everyone -- I was going to post a link, but as of a couple of weeks ago, the blue brake fluid is now illegal in the US of damn A. Apparently, there's a legal requirement for the color of brake fluid, and people who buy brake fluid are apparently now considered too stupid to tell the difference between the brake fluid reservoir and the windshield washer reservoir.

[Nessism]

Since we are on the subject of changing brake fluid, just want to remind everyone that once the fluid turns brown and chunky, the only way to clean the system is via a tear down and clean out. You can not flush though the gunk when there are chunkies in the system. Also, replacing the brake lines is mandatory if your bike is still sporting the originals. Suzuki calls for replacing brake lines every two years, which while obviously excessive, if your bike still has the originals you are about 30 years behind on your scheduled maintenance.

[MAJikMARCer]

Edit:
Dagnabbit, the dadburn nanny state commie gubbamint idjits just screwed this up for everyone -- I was going to post a link, but as of a couple of weeks ago, the blue brake fluid is now illegal in the US of damn A. Apparently, there's a legal requirement for the color of brake fluid, and people who buy brake fluid are apparently now considered too stupid to tell the difference between the brake fluid reservoir and the windshield washer reservoir.

Yea it's been illegal for years but sold as 'racing' fluid. I luckily got some before it was removed from the market. It made changing the fluid on my car WAY easier. No difference than the color, but it easily lets you know when you've flushed out the old. Alternate between blue and amber/clear and it's easy peasy.

I bet there will be ways of still getting the blue fluid.

[JEEPRUSTY]

I too know the joys of brake fluid changing.
Gravity works so well on a bike,

Now that we know the coloured stuff is unavaliable how do we as a dye to it?

ANy chemists about?

[bwringer]

Yea it's been illegal for years but sold as 'racing' fluid. I luckily got some before it was removed from the market. It made changing the fluid on my car WAY easier. No difference than the color, but it easily lets you know when you've flushed out the old. Alternate between blue and amber/clear and it's easy peasy.

I bet there will be ways of still getting the blue fluid.

I suspect it'll become available again, but it will be labeled "Race use only" and it will not be allowed to say "DOT4" on the label.

Probably will be twice the price, too...

[tkent02]

No problem. It's easy enough to see the difference between black and clear.

[Vexarana]

Since we are on the subject of changing brake fluid, just want to remind everyone that once the fluid turns brown and chunky, the only way to clean the system is via a tear down and clean out. You can not flush though the gunk when there are chunkies in the system. Also, replacing the brake lines is mandatory if your bike is still sporting the originals. Suzuki calls for replacing brake lines every two years, which while obviously excessive, if your bike still has the originals you are about 30 years behind on your scheduled maintenance.

I need to do a full brake job on my bike before riding it and I've seen this recommendation lots of times. Can you jump straight to SS braided lines when replacing stock lines?

I've seen the "how to order the parts and do it yourself" post before but I was thinking of just ordering some online, but if I put lower bars on will the extra length affect anything? I figure it's just easier to do it all at once, opposed to replacing lines and fluid then wanting to do it again later on down the road.

[Brendan W]

SS are expensive so you need to get it right first time if possible. Lower bars would in general require a shorter hose and while there is some capacity to absorb slack I wouldn't push it. Brake hoses will chafe at any and everything in sight if given a chance. Your supplier should be able to advise as long as you are close to stock set up. One thing you could do is try the new bars with the old hose first and see what happens.
SS is generally smaller outside diameter and metallic naturally so you have to rethink all the places where there are hose guides. You may need to fit a bit of rubber hose outside the SS in places to stop it chafing. A good example is the hose guide on the front fender.see pic. You can see a POs attempts to reduce chafing with hose in the guide held with zip ties and tape wound on the ss line where it crosses the fender. This hose may be a little on the short side.

[Nessism]

SS are expensive so you need to get it right first time if possible. Lower bars would in general require a shorter hose and while there is some capacity to absorb slack I wouldn't push it. Brake hoses will chafe at any and everything in sight if given a chance. Your supplier should be able to advise as long as you are close to stock set up. One thing you could do is try the new bars with the old hose first and see what happens.
SS is generally smaller outside diameter and metallic naturally so you have to rethink all the places where there are hose guides. You may need to fit a bit of rubber hose outside the SS in places to stop it chafing. A good example is the hose guide on the front fender.see pic. You can see a POs attempts to reduce chafing with hose in the guide held with zip ties and tape wound on the ss line where it crosses the fender. This hose may be a little on the short side.

Build your own lines from Earl's parts and you won't have to guess as to the proper length. There is a long thread here on the particulars. There is an outfit in Canada called Reinsport or something to this effect if you are not capable of doing the lines yourself, but you are then back to guessing the proper lengths instead of trimming the line yourself after it's on the bike.

[koolaid_kid]

Vexarana, I suggest the following:
Install the new bars first. Your requirements will change.
Once they are installed purchase some vacuum line (it is relatively inexpensive). Route the vacuum line through the same path you want your brake lines to be routed. You will be very close in length and can use this length when ordering new lines. Start with the longest run first, then you can reuse the line and shorten it for the next run.
If you go with the stock configuration, the two lines from the T fitting to the calipers should be the same length. The line from the T fitting to the master cylinder may be shorter, depending on the height of your bars.
Do not make them too short. The picture in Brendan W's post shows a line that is too short. Do not make that mistake.
Best of luck.

[chuck hahn]

Yes Brendans are too short. Should be a bit of a bowing in there.