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    Spark Plug issue

    I was changing the plugs on my bike when i came across a washer with some hard black stuff on it. A closer look showed some of the top threads missing in the spark plug housing(pics attached). After cleaning what I could i tried to put the new plug on, only to realize that a could hear air being pushed out when i tried to start the bike. Soooooo, what was the black stuff(im thinking some sort of homemade gasket) and what can i do to fix this situation?

    Get some of the mystery black stuff and make new gasket?

    #2
    What cylinder? I had number 3 on my 78 1000C strip and I used the Napa Save-A-Thread kit. Have the piston at about half way down, run the supplied tap, and insert the LONGEST thread repair adapter.

    To remove any chips that fell into the cylinder, I used some 3/8 plastic tubing and taped it all into the end of the shop vac hose and duct taped it closed. Then i inserted the tubing thru the plug hole and sucked the crap off the top of the piston. Worked perfectly and did it right on the bike in under an hour. If its #2 or 3 you may need an extention for the tap and use a ratchet like I did.

    This is the kit..about the same price as I paid at the parts counter.

    3 insert lengths to accommodate all spark plugs. HeliCoil 5334-14 Sav-A-Thread Kit - M14x1.25. 1 Insert Per Kit. Tool Part No. Tap Part No.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      Mine was #3 as well. I guess the previous owner used some RTV and a washer to seal up the broken threads. Good to know that somebody else out there has used the SAV A THREAD kit on something like this and it worked. Thanks for the info.

      Comment


        #4
        If you do it with the head in place, make sure you get ALL of the metal particles. Make sure both the intake and the exhaust valves are closed before you start. You can use compressed air and the vacuum both, do it a LOT to get it all. Did this on an old BMW car once, lost a rod bearing five minutes later. I think some of the pieces went up into the intake, then somehow back through the engine. When I rebuilt tthe engine, that one bearing had a lot of aluminum bits in it, the other bearings had a little bit too.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment


          #5
          Looks like a helicoil might be in there already. Installed too deep though.

          Not to go against anyone here, but a few aluminum chips in the cylinder usually don't hurt anything. They burn up or blow out the exhaust. No easy path into the crankcase.
          Last edited by Nessism; 12-07-2013, 03:26 PM.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Does anyone object against using some form of RTV, like the stuff that was on there already? Especially if a helicoil is already in there

            Comment


              #7
              snap on makes a tool that puts pressurized air into cylinder as you cut the threads.

              some times it is just as easy to teflon tape the threads.
              SUZUKI , There is no substitute

              Comment


                #8
                "some times it is just as easy to teflon tape the threads"
                I am fairly new to the mechanical side of engines, so forgive my ignorance but will the teflon hold up to what is occurring at this part of the engine, would i be better off using some RTV product?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by trippivot View Post
                  snap on makes a tool that puts pressurized air into cylinder as you cut the threads.
                  This sounds like a great idea.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You can not seal a spark plug using RTV.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So after doing some research its apparent that teflon tape will just melt off rather quickly, does anyone have a suggestion for a heat resistant gasket maker? Loctite?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Do not use a thread sealant please.

                        Get a spark plug repair kit and have it installed.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          You do realize I hope that if the remaining threads fail that spark plug is coming out like a shotgun slug aimed at your knee?
                          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                          Life is too short to ride an L.

                          Comment

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