No crank 81 650gl

[Guest]

Howdy folks.

After neglecting my bike for a couple months, I've got a no-crank. When this has happened before, I've disassembled the starter button and cleaned contacts, disassembled (and replaced part of) the clutch safety switch, and found what usually works is cleaning the contacts on the starter relay (I think that's what it is) mounted right next to the battery.

I have a few blown fuses from some PO stupidity with the seat, but I think only 3 are necessary for starter operation. I'll replace them before messing with it more, but it's frustrating to have a no-crank any time my bike goes more than a month without being ridden.

The high beam was bright, battery read 12.22V, which is not bad, but it needs to be charged.

Any suggestions on what else to check?

[cowboyup3371]

Have you gone through the stator papers and done those checks?

[Steve]

You only need two fuses to be able to crank the bike and get it running, the MAIN and IGNITION fuses.

The battery is a bit low at 12.2. What is the voltage when you hit the starter button?
My guess is that with starting voltage that low, it dips WAY down when you hit the button.

.

[WilliamGLX81]

I did when I first went through the bike a few years ago. Nothing indicates a bad stator.

[Badooka]

I'd get a fresh battery and try again- and of course with all the necessary fuses in place.

[tom203]

I did when I first went through the bike a few years ago. Nothing indicates a bad stator.

You got a problem ,so best to review/test the charging system again. You might have a small current leak that discharges battery- perhaps the R/R is "leaking" a bit. Mine has gone 3 weeks of idleness without weakness- decent agm battery

[1_v8_merc]

Steve is correct, sounds like the battery.
12.20 volts is the Borderline for a No-Crank condition.

After you turn on the Ignition, Ensure the Kill Switch is set to Run, you're probably Only getting around 11.00 volts to the starter. The coils suck a lot of voltage, and whatevers left, goes to your starter. So you can see how quickly a battery gets drained during start up.

Place the battery on a small charger for an hour or two, then try again.

Or jumpstart the bike from a NON-running car.(car must be OFF)
If you jump from a running car, electrical damage will occur!

Anyways, if you start to get Cranking...it's your battery.

[WilliamGLX81]

Checked the clutch safety switch, bypassed it, still was getting nothing, battery was reading 12.65 before I started trying to crank.

Cranked about 3-5 times, it started and I cut the choke down too soon so it died. Then it was back to no-cranks. No voltage drop at all when I pressed the starter button, so I jumpered the 2 posts of the starter relay (with insulated pliers) and it cranked.

So, it looks like a bad starter relay to me.

[tom203]

Remember that starter relay frame needs to have good ground- you might have intermitent one.

[Steve]

..., so I jumpered the 2 posts of the starter relay (with insulated pliers) and it cranked.

So, it looks like a bad starter relay to me.

Before you condemn the solenoid, verify that you have power coming to the small yellow/breen wire when you push the starter button and also verify that the case has a good ground. Most of the solenoids that I have seen were mounted to the battery box, which is rubber-mounted. That means there MUST be a separate ground wire somewhere on the battery box (under the solenoid mounting screw is best).

.

[WilliamGLX81]

Thanks guys. I will check the ground and power. I think the yellow/green wire showed voltage when I pressed the starter button ... I'll double check though.
I may add a new ground, there's an "extra" one from the battery black to ground under the battery in a terrible spot, if you ask me. Sandpaper helped, but I think I should move it. What do you think of moving it to the relay? I think it may reach. Otherwise I'll just add a new ground elsewhere.

Here's a question - How do you fight corrosion on these connections? The shiny hardware-store nuts are rusting. The zinc-coated ones are corroding, but not as severly. Should I go with aluminum washers or something? I live on the coast. Maybe I should spray battert terminal protector on the outside of the fittings?

[tom203]

Thanks guys. I will check the ground and power. I think the yellow/green wire showed voltage when I pressed the starter button ... I'll double check though.
I may add a new ground, there's an "extra" one from the battery black to ground under the battery in a terrible spot, if you ask me. Sandpaper helped, but I think I should move it. What do you think of moving it to the relay? I think it may reach. Otherwise I'll just add a new ground elsewhere.

That "extra" wire to battery box is a band-aid- you need common point grounding or you will experience constant electrical grief-as in miles from home,dark,rainy, etc.

[WilliamGLX81]

That "extra" wire to battery box is a band-aid- you need common point grounding or you will experience constant electrical grief-as in miles from home,dark,rainy, etc.

Sorry, what's common point grounding? I googled it but came up with nothing. Do you just mean making sure my frame grounds are good?

[tom203]

Head here, proceed to step 2 if in hurry. Basically you want the R/R to "see" the battery clearly- understand that the R/R is supplying the loads to run bike with leftover sent to keep battery happy

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1138531#post1138531