Deep pitting on engine

[tkent02]

Do they even make crinkle clear?

[posplayr]

Do they even make crinkle clear?

I can make it, no problem. I also can do "fish eye"; multi talented.

[tkent02]

Ah, yes. I have made a few of those too.

I really like the new "Bug Leg and Wing" paint. Very tricky to apply though.

[gspower]

You have now had at least 5 people tell you that if you are looking for a polished finish, you have to avoid making deep scratches. 100 grit is about the worst thing you could do. The idea is to use the finest grit that will get through the oxidation.
What has not been mentioned is the use of a power tool. When the tool moves quickly it has the effect of reducing the roughness of the paper. It the cover was really really bad, I would use 250 grit on a power orbital sander/palm sander. Only if that was not going through then sand down further with like a 150 grit.

Again, you do not want to sand out all of the imperfections with such a rough grit as you will have to just take out even more during polishing. You just want to remove enough material till you are withing sanding distance of the firer grits.

You're right, but I messed up with using the wire brush. Damage was already done. The scratches were deep enough that I went through three sheets of 250 grit and I still hadn't evened it all out - hence my dropping down to 180, which worked, I think. I should have spent more time down at the lower grits really sanding it out. This is my first time sanding anything more complicated than spackle on a wall. Live and learn. I'll keep posting progress pictures.

[posplayr]

You're right, but I messed up with using the wire brush. Damage was already done. The scratches were deep enough that I went through three sheets of 250 grit and I still hadn't evened it all out - hence my dropping down to 180, which worked, I think. I should have spent more time down at the lower grits really sanding it out. This is my first time sanding anything more complicated than spackle on a wall. Live and learn. I'll keep posting progress pictures.

Yea, you might need the 180 to get down far enough to where the scratches are from the 100/wire-wheel.
You never want to go below 250, then you just don't get into the same problem area. And at that with 250 that is very rough.

If in the same (starting )position, I would use a palm sander with 150-250 depending on what you can do to keep it from clogging the paper to get to 99% of the corrosion off. Leave the rest for the remaining increasing grit sequence.

[gspower]

Yea, you might need the 180 to get down far enough to where the scratches are from the 100/wire-wheel.
You never want to go below 250, then you just don't get into the same problem area. And at that with 250 that is very rough.

If in the same (starting )position, I would use a palm sander with 150-250 depending on what you can do to keep it from clogging the paper to get to 99% of the corrosion off. Leave the rest for the remaining increasing grit sequence.

Thanks for the advice. I'll report back when the pieces start lookin' better.

[Nessism]

The factory look is pretty close to 600 grit. It's actually a very fine "brushed" appearance with the grain in one direction.