Winter maintenance

[Rob S.]

I'm preparing my list of winter work for Suzi. Aside from some cosmetic work/improvements/repairs (140 speedo, etc.) this is what I've come up with. Question marked items I'm unsure of. Could you help me prioritize, particularly the questioned items? Am I forgetting anything?

Valve check/adjust
Clean elect. connections, add new ground wire(s)
SS brake lines
Spark plugs/tune up
Oil & filter
SH-775 or Compufire regulator/rectifier?
Oil sump strainer (clean)?
Rear shocks/springs?
LED headlight?
Compression check?
Fork brace?

Already done:

Fork springs & seals
Sprockets & chain
Tires
Brake pads
Swing arm bushings
Oil cooler

Thanks much.

[mrbill5491]

Either R/R is fine, just depends if you want to spend a few more $$ for the Compufire. I bought the Compufire though that was long before we found out about the SH775, Though think I would stay with my Compufire, going on 6 years now and not a hiccup. Oh I did start with a new stator as well, might as well be as new as possible with this part of the bike.

[habsdoc]

Winter work

Hi, I see you mention brake pads and SS lines, but what about the master cylinders and calipers???

[DimitriT]

Oil sump? Unless the oil pan is leaking or I stripped the drain hole, I wouldn't bother getting to that. And even if you do get it apart for some reason I think you will find the strainer to be perfectly clean. No need to disassemble parts which have been happily together for 30 years, IMHO.

[mrbill5491]

Hi, I see you mention brake pads and SS lines, but what about the master cylinders and calipers???

If they aren't leaking or sticking, why mess with them. Mine are 34 years old and never been touched and work just fine. My bike gets an annual fluid change. A fluid change once a year can prevent alot of headaches.

[Rob S.]

Hi, I see you mention brake pads and SS lines, but what about the master cylinders and calipers???

Thanks for the reminder.

Oil sump? Unless the oil pan is leaking or I stripped the drain hole, I wouldn't bother getting to that. And even if you do get it apart for some reason I think you will find the strainer to be perfectly clean. No need to disassemble parts which have been happily together for 30 years, IMHO.

I'm not clear on what it takes to get to the sump strainer, but my mechanic did mention that it took a long time to drain the oil because the plug had been replaced, or drilled out with a smaller hole.

[Rob S.]

If they aren't leaking or sticking, why mess with them. Mine are 34 years old and never been touched and work just fine. My bike gets an annual fluid change. A fluid change once a year can prevent alot of headaches.

Mine work fine too. So just a brake bleed (besides the SS lines) will be enough?

Actually, wouldn't they have to be bled and refilled as part of installing SS lines?

[hampshirehog]

I would be tempted to sort out the calipers if they haven't been looked at for a good while. All the crud in the system seems to settle down in there almost regardless of how regular the fluid has been changed. Plus the pistons might be pitted (they all are over here with our salted roads). The MC though, if it looks clean, isn't leaking and works fine, I would leave alone.

[Wingsconsin]

It's easier to do the calipers when they arecworking than once they exihibit problems ..
Taking apart parts that move is way easier than once they get stuck..and you will likely find they work better when you are finished...

[Crankthat]

It's easier to do the calipers when they arecworking than once they exihibit problems ..
Taking apart parts that move is way easier than once they get stuck..and you will likely find they work better when you are finished...

What he said Rob.
And as posted above gunk likes to settle in the low places.
The gunk has acidic qualities due to make up of brake fluid and moisture retention.
If you are replacing the lines anyways might as well clean the calipers also.
Fairly easy job and you know everything is good when done.
The most difficult part is taking out the pistons.
You pump them out.
On Basecliffs site there is a tutorial.
Brake Caliper Overhaul
(by Mr. Stefnwolf)
Be sure to pay attention to the use of the spacer in above tutorial.
The first time I rebuilt breaks I was not aware of this or Basecliffs site.
Without the tutorial and the use of a spacer as described within the piston removal for the one that did not want to budge was a real PITA.
Remember to clean everything well inside and out.
There are a couple of (socks?) not sure on the correct term that slide over the holding pins.
I ripped one by being careless so pay attention when putting back together.
Clean the pins good of baked on crud and insure the travel for the pins is smooth and then grease as per manual.
I used regular grease but a high temp would have been ideal.
There is also a bleeding tutorial on Basecliffs site.

I made my own version of a mighty vac though instead.

Heavy rubberized foam
A deep wide mouth tin can.
Fuel line to bit over bleeders.
A vacuum. (hose type)
And a fillet knife to cut foam.

Just heated up the can on the stove and pressed into foam to form a lip in the foam for the can to seal against.
While facing lip, cut a hole smaller diameter then vacuum hose. (hose will press into foam even with the hole being smaller and guaranteed a tight seal)
Cut a hole for fuel line and insert line to bottom of can.
Seal up foam to fuel line with Gorilla glue. (let dry)

Fill like normal with bleeders open.
Pump break.
Wait for bleeders to show fluid then close.
Open one bleeder ( on dual disk), attach line to bleeder, open master, vacuum while insuring master is kept with fluid.
Wait for bubbles to stop.
Close bleeder.
Go to other side and repeat for dual.
Do not let the can get to much fluid build up as you want to keep fluid out of vacuum as much as possible.
Be sure to test your pressure for brakes before every ride always regardless of working on the bike or not. (just a reminder to any newbies)

My vacuum cleaner contains next to none when it comes to metal parts.
Cheap china crap.
Would be less likely to use with a expensive model vacuum cleaner as the break fluid will cause damage to metal.

[mrbill5491]

Mine work fine too. So just a brake bleed (besides the SS lines) will be enough?

Actually, wouldn't they have to be bled and refilled as part of installing SS lines?

That's right they do. A good flush, a bleed and refilled.

[mrbill5491]

It's easier to do the calipers when they arecworking than once they exihibit problems ..
Taking apart parts that move is way easier than once they get stuck..and you will likely find they work better when you are finished...

That's why I do an annual flush and bleed. Keeps the moisture and crap out.

[chuck hahn]

Bill....this also depends on what the original poster knows about the bikes previous history. When I get a bike i assume its been neglected and it needs EVERYTHING cleaned. This way I establish that baseline where I MYSELF am 100% certain of the syatems condition and the condition of the critical parts.

The time spent to break down the calipers AND the masters is time well spent when that few seconds of a hand full of brake is needed and they dont fail.

Oh and by the way, you can flush them till the cows come home but I would bet if you broke down the masters youd still find the piston and cups are collecting crud around them. Just because "they work fine" doesnt solidly mean that they "are fine" inside.

If I were you..or anyone else..I would rethink your theories here!!!!

[mrbill5491]

Bill....this also depends on what the original poster knows about the bikes previous history. When I get a bike i assume its been neglected and it needs EVERYTHING cleaned. This way I establish that baseline where I MYSELF am 100% certain of the syatems condition and the condition of the critical parts.

The time spent to break down the calipers AND the masters is time well spent when that few seconds of a hand full of brake is needed and they dont fail.

Oh and by the way, you can flush them till the cows come home but I would bet if you broke down the masters youd still find the piston and cups are collecting crud around them. Just because "they work fine" doesnt solidly mean that they "are fine" inside.

If I were you..or anyone else..I would rethink your theories here!!!!

Don't think you understood my so called "theory" not a theory at all, just good maintenance on my part and maybe I should have explained it better. I started my flush and etc since I've had the bike new, the brake fluid never got over a year old and discolored. I've seen brake fluid on bikes that have not been changed in several years and it has the consistency of ear wax! And they wonder why their brakes don't work very well. Yeah those brake systems definitely need to be tore down big time. You'll probably agree the brake fluid is one of the most ignored parts on a bike. I know most don't do what I do and alot of these guys who buy a GS bike do need to give the brake system immediate attention. And just to set your mind at ease and this is in my maintenance schedule, is to inspect the caliper pistons and MC when I change out the pads this winter. Already have the parts for that just in case.

[chuck hahn]

You miss my point..thats doesnt mean chit. Time still allows crud to build whether you change it every year or not. I got bikes that the brakes were solid at the grip and opened them up to find the piston was wrapped in crud and corrosion. Just because you changed it each year doesnt really assure you of anything other than theres fresh fluid each year.

And I will openly chastise you for giving a guy advice that potential faulty and may cost a life. You do the job fully and correctly or leave the bike parked is my opinion. You do as you wish with your azzz on the seat but please dont tell someone that all they need to do is change fluid when neither us OR HIM knows what the systems true internal condition is.

Bet you open a master up and youll find crud......34 year old anything IS IN NO WAY CLEAN INSIDE.