was inspired by last post! thanks in advance.
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going to attempt valves too!a couple of questions please...
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going to attempt valves too!a couple of questions please...
hi all again, seems like valve check and ajustment first port of call so going to get myself organised to have a go next week. my bike is a uk 1980 gsx 750 et, first 16 valve model. have never attemted this , so my questions are..what tools will i need?is it likely that the gasket will need replaced? and will need a guide to follow, have been to bikecliffs site, but not sure which us model has the same engine as mine.
was inspired by last post! thanks in advance.Tags: None
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Crankthat
This would be the equivalent engine guide.
A couple of extra things.
Before you take the cover off make sure you clean everything above it real real good so as not to contaminate your work.
Unknown if you will need a new gasket until you can see condition of old one.
Apply some lube on gasket before reassembly and next time it should come off easy.
As cheap as the seals are for tach shaft you might as well replace while you have the cover off.
Apply some lube to the tach shaft seal as well.
I have answered posts here where people have trouble getting that last bolt out.
If this happens to you tighten the two on either side of the stuck one enough to take a bit of pressure off it.
Or just break loose all of them before taking the pressure off.
Two sets of feeler gauges makes adjustment a bit easier.
The valves are adjusted two per cam lobe with a y shaped pressure point.
They tend to rock a bit.
It is not a must to have two sets of feeler gauges but will make it a bit easier.
It was suggested to me that the half moons could be reused.
A dab of RTV on the curve of them and then to tighten the cover without the gasket and let the RTV set up.
The next day take cover off, trim any excess RTV, Apply gasket, set cover back on and tighten to spec.
I did not have a dowel as in the tutorial but did have a screw with the correct size fitting.
I trimmed and drilled a old tooth brush in place of a dowel.
Double check all your work before you batten it back together.
The 16 valve motors are easy to work on when it comes to adjustment of valves.
If you run into troubles just let us know.
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ad777
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Crankthat
One more thing.
If you have a camera I would really like to see a few pictures of your cam lobes.
The 16 valve 750 motors have a oiling issue and I am just curious of any damages/grooving on the lobes and correspondence with cylinder and intake or exhaust.
No big deal but I am curious.
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ad777
Not a problem,will take photos of lobes,and post up,am hoping there wont be too much damage showing!
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ad777
WP_20150402_001.jpg don't know if this will open,have tried to upload pic from phone of cam lobes,if it doesn't work,mine very similar to the pic in the how to do valves thread,my exhaust valves definitely more worn than the intakes,there a discoloured slightly raised bit on all of them.if my pic doesn't open,just refer to other link as almost identical,coincidence,or common problem?!
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ad777
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RockyPatel15
Excellent timing, I have the exact same bike (called the GS 750ET in the states that year), and when I opened it up to check the valve clearances there was some pretty visible wear on the exhaust cam lobes. My question is, how much is too much? Are these toast, or should I save the expense and run them? What's the remedy to the oiling issue, if there is one?
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I have the same bike with 59,000 miles on it, everything looks fine. Just make sure you (this is gonna open a can worms as usual) a good quality oil. Syn or Dino of at least a 10w-40 grade. I use a syn 10w-40 in it for years. No problems. I change it every 5,000 miles and new filter.
You'll find when checking your valves, not all will need to be adjusted. Once these engines get season especially on the valve adjust, they only need to be check every so often, I do mine at 6,000 miles. Think the last time I did mine it only 4-5 needed some adjustment the rest were fine.Last edited by mrbill5491; 04-15-2015, 05:34 PM.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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ad777
Used a pretty basic 15/40 diesel car oil...seems to be ok! Am pretty sure got all the valve settings right,there is a tappity noise from top end,double checked settings ,is it quite normal to get a tappity noise in these engines? Am maybe being over sensitive!
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Crankthat
Thanks for the pictures.
Typical for a tappity noise?
I do not know the answer to that.
Mine does.
And a bit more noticeable after everything was adjusted within spec.
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ad777
Same with mine,hadn't noticed it before,but seemed to come from left hand side when done...having said that just taken off a dodgy speedo cable and noise now not there! Could have sworn it was coming from the engine! Time will tell....
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Originally posted by ad777 View PostUsed a pretty basic 15/40 diesel car oil...seems to be ok! Am pretty sure got all the valve settings right,there is a tappity noise from top end,double checked settings ,is it quite normal to get a tappity noise in these engines? Am maybe being over sensitive!sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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ad777
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