I did something bad.

[Guest]

I was going through my bike try to find this damn chatter, Someone said to also check the timing chain tensioner. I did take to tensioner loose, but I did know not to move the motor while it was loose, and I did. Now the bike is back together and will not fire up. It is acting like timing is way off. How do I go about setting the timing back to where it belongs??? Help

[Steve]

Consult your service manual.
Remove the valve cover and the ignition cover on the right end of the crank.
Set the timing marks (visible on the right end of crank) for TDC 1/4
Verify the #1 timing mark on the exhaust cam is in the right place.
Count the pins from timing mark #2 on the exhaust cam to the #3 mark on the intake cam.
Consult your manual to see what that number should be.
Reset your tensioner, install it properly.
Rotate the crank at least twice (clockwise only, please) to verify everything is OK.
Put it back together and go for a ride.

.

[R1reaper]

I ordered a manual like 3 weeks ago and has never shown up. I have the online cliff's manual from here. I know this will sound dumb Steve, but what do you mean pins? I thought you bring the bike to 1/4 TDC and make sure the exhaust cam is lined up with top of the head. Then count the chain links back to the intake cam. I figure that is what has happened. When I turned the motor over with the cam tensioner loose one of the cams jump a tooth. I went ahead and set the motor to TDC, but that is as far as I got. And When you say install the tensioner properly what do you mean, and how do you adjust it. I hate to ask all this but, The gs1100 is new to me. I have never wrenched on older bikes.

[tom203]

There are no dumb questions. Steve means chain pins ....for tensioner go here

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/engine_odds-n-ends.html#A06

[mike_of_bbg]

BassCliff also has a factory service manual in PDF form at his site:

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf

See pp. 96-102

[R1reaper]

YEAH!!! I got the cams back where they belong, and everything back together. She fired right up. I still have the bad chatter. Now that I got the new tach cable. I can tell you that when you bring the rmp up it stops, but as soon as they stop climbing. The chatter comes right back. and as the rmp gets lower it gets louder and harder. Like something is banging hard in side. Not sure where to go from here to find the noise?

[JTGS850GL]

Where do you hear the rattle? If it's louder on the left side of the bike then check your starter clutch. If it's more on the right side then check you clutch hub nut. Liter+ engines seem to have issues with these. Just replaced my starter clutch on my 1100G engine. Made a bit of a racket at lower RPMs, when starting and when rolling off the gas. Sounded a little like rocks rolling around inside the engine.

[R1reaper]

I let the bike run and get up to temp. I was kinda flushing the motor. I found a lot of slug in the oil pan. When I drain the oil in a minute I was planning on checking the stator magnet bolt. It was loose last time I was in the motor. I was going to check the clutch nut as well. I don't know how to check the starter clutch??? I have heard the starter spin backward or something when I shut it down, or if I am cranking the motor over and stop. I opened the oil fill hole while the bike was running and I could here a chattering noise. A little bit louder. But this noise sounds louder on the stator side.

[JTGS850GL]

You need to remove the flywheel that contains the stator magnets. Blotted behind that is the starter clutch. Common problems include loose hex bolts (used to bolt the starter clutch to the flywheel), damaged rollers, damaged starter clutch hub or damaged secondary gear surface that the roller balls ride on. Check it out quickly as it can cause more severe damaged if things get really bad. The sounds you hear are symptomatic of a failing starter clutch.

[R1reaper]

I have to pick up my kid from school, As soon as I get back I will start into the bike. Thanks I will keep ya posted on what I find.

[R1reaper]

ok I took the stator case off and found the magnet bolt had backed almost all the way off! If I giggle the magnet. I hear the chatter noise. I can hear it clank when I move it back and forth. Now can I use red Loctite on the bolt or would it be bad to do that. It need 74 foot pounds of torque. I got the torque wrench out, but what if it just backs off again. I would like to check the starter clutch. Do I need a puller to get it off?

[JTGS850GL]

Now can I use red Loctite on the bolt or would it be bad to do that. It need 74 foot pounds of torque. I got the torque wrench out, but what if it just backs off again. I would like to check the starter clutch. Do I need a puller to get it off?

You can use red Loctite on that bolt but if you do, I'd make VERY SURE that the starter clutch is in good order. The red LT can be a bit of a bear to get it off again. Takes a lot of heat to remove it. You will need a tool to remove the flywheel but I believe that "tool" is simply a hardened bolt that will thread into the center of the flywheel and press it off the shaft. DON'T use a hammer to try to knock it off. It will damage the magnets.

[R1reaper]

Well I have decided that I hate ever shop in Nashville TN. Not one shop has a 30mm magneto puller that will fit this motor. I hate playing the waiting game. Now I have to order the puller and the new starter clutch( OH QUESTION) Now a new complete one is like 150 on ebay. So I am sure from the dealer will be even more. So should I buy a rebuild kit or just place the whole thing? Opinions. I have like 4 days on the puller before it arrives. So should I order the new parts or wait till the puller gets here to inspect it to see if it is even damaged?

[1948man]

"wait till the puller gets here to inspect it to see if it is even damaged? "

I'd go with that option.

[londonboards]

Try this if you suspect the clutch:

Open oil filler cap.
Sit on bike.
Start bike.
Pull in clutch.
Put it in first.
Hold front brake hard.
Slowly release clutch until it bites.

Does the noise go away?

Yes: then it's clutch related (nut lose, rattling clutch hub bearing, rattling basket back plate and back plate springs or lateral movement of the whole clutch on the spline).
No: look somewhere else.

And here's the video of this test described above:

Greetings