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Polishing valve shims to the right thickness

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    Polishing valve shims to the right thickness

    Hi, I'm about to check valve gaps on my '81 GS650L. I've cleaned and put new O-rings in carbs and boots. Also I've sealed air box. My question is if my gaps are tight, is it a bad idea to polish down shims and mic to right thickness? I got her 3 weeks ago, and couldn't get it start without a squetr of quick start. I think it would be easy enough to use wet/dry sandpaper (1200) to get them within specs. Thoughts?

    #2
    Sounds like a bad idea to me
    My stable
    84 GSX1100EFG-10.62 @ 125 mph 64'' W/B.
    85 GS1150-9.72@146mph stock W/B.
    88 GSXR1100-dragbike 9.18@139.92mph/5.68@118mph.
    98 Bandit 1200-9.38@146mph/6.02@121mph.
    90 Suzuki GS 1425cc FBG Pro Stock chassis 5.42@124mph
    06 GSXR750 10.44@135mph
    00 Honda elite 80 pit bike

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      #3
      Everything i have read about it says it is very difficult to get a uniform thickness.
      This may cause the shim to move inside the bucket.
      2@ \'78 GS1000

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        #4
        They cost like $5 a piece and you can re-sell the old ones on ebay and get half your money back. Just get new ones already.

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          #5
          my local shop traded me for free, ask!

          Comment


            #6
            We also have a "shim club" here on GSR. Contact member Ghostgs1 for details.

            I think it's basically free, except for the postage, although donations are never refused.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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              #7
              "I think it would be easy enough to use wet/dry sandpaper (1200) to get them within specs. Thoughts?"

              Maybe a few days-are you really bored? No, then just join shim club. Don't worry there will be lots of fun other stuff to keep you busy. Sounds like you got carb removal and cleaning to do, otherwise this critter will never run right.
              1981 gs650L

              "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                #8
                Best way is to surface grind them with coolant flowing so they are perfectly flat..coolant so they dont heat up while grinding. Take very very thin sweeps so you dont suck the shims off the table. Very hard to block shims in unless you have some thinner steel around that you can use to block with.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                  #9
                  Just let Ray at the shim club do it. He has the proper machines all set up and a metric ton of shims ready to go.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #10
                    I can't believe that grinding the stock shims is even being debated. I don't know if these are surface hardened or the same harness throughout but I wouldn't take the risk. Just not worth it to save a couple bucks.

                    Just pick up the correct size replacement shims. In most cases you can shuffle them around and you'll only need to purchase a couple.
                    http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                    1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                    1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                    1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                    Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                    JTGS850GL aka Julius

                    GS Resource Greetings

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hardened all the way thru and they did it all the time back in the day. If I had a surface grinder I would do my own too. Bet you send Ray a message and he has ground them too.
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I've ground a couple of mine, but as with everything, it's knowing how and what to do. Not every solution is on a shelf.
                        ---- Dave

                        Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by JTGS850GL View Post
                          I can't believe that grinding the stock shims is even being debated. I don't know if these are surface hardened or the same harness throughout but I wouldn't take the risk. Just not worth it to save a couple bucks.

                          Just pick up the correct size replacement shims. In most cases you can shuffle them around and you'll only need to purchase a couple.
                          They are hardened all the way through. Haven't had any trouble with Ray's shims, nor have I heard of anyone having trouble. He has a lot of each size, he would probably send unground ones in whatever size you need if you asked him politely. He sends them out, once you swap them you send him your old ones, everybody is happy. Except the folks who sell shims for $10 apiece.
                          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                          Life is too short to ride an L.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I had my 450's shims taken down. There was a shop that had second hand shims and charged a fortune for them, plus wanted the old ones.

                            my (then) neighbour has an engine rebuilding shop and they often get requests to grind down shims.

                            kept record of them using Steve's spreadsheet.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I also have reduced thickness using wet and dry+ some wd40, its an ok method, the way to get round the uniform thickness is to rub them in a figure 8 and rotate 90 degrees every 10 or so figure 8s'. Takes a long time and really ok if its you got no choice.
                              sigpic

                              Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

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