shim size all over the place.....

[Nessism]

Loosen the head nuts in reverse order. There are numbers cast into the head. Remove the small screws first though before you go after the main head nuts. When removing the head nuts do it in stages. Do them all 1/2 turn or so and then start again with another 1/2 turn.

OEM gaskets and seals are best. Whatever you do don't get any gaskets made by Athena (green gaskets).

And remember, it's only a "mistake" if you do something wrong twice.

[Chopperjake]

GOT IT!!!!! WOOHOOO!!!!!!

The ecstasy of everything coming apart like it should!!!!

I ordered a new head from ebay. I could have just ordered valves, but the one I ordered I got for $75 delivered, plus it has some stuff I could sell back to recoup my losses - has all the valves in it, all the shims, carb boots. Plus I had boogered up 3 of my valve cover bolt holes previously and only ever got one tapped back right. (Although magically it hasn't leaked with my orange silicon? "RealGasket" - I'm a big fan of them now).

thanks everyone for the help. I'm super-pumped to get moving forward on this thing. I slightly regret screwing it up in the first place, but I'm happy to get intimate with my bikes and I've never redone a top end before, so as long as I get her back on the street, C'est la vie!!!

[chuck hahn]

Take the old valves out and maybe post pics of them from the side..and some of the valve seats for informational purposes of anyone visiting this thread. AND how do the tops of the pistons look? I think I would pull the jugs and see if there was any damage to the piston skirts if they had been forced to kink to one side as the valves hit home. Be sure the rods arent jimmied any as well.

Basically waht I am saying is to check it all out as the impact has ripple effects down the entire chain...know what i mean??/

[Chopperjake]

Ok Chuck,

I'm listening. You haven't steered my wrong yet.

By "jugs" I'm sure you mean the cylinders. Basically all I should have to do is lift them off at this point since the top end is out, right?

I guess I don't want to get in over my head. If I pull the jugs, am I compelled to replace all the piston rings? Will I need a ring compressor to get it back together? Will I need to replace the gasket between the cylinders and the case? (the one between cylinders and top end looks to be in very good shape - i was going to reuse it).

My pistons don't SEEM to have any damage that I can see.....but I'm open to it if it can be done without too much hassle.

[chuck hahn]

Well you have already decompressed the base gasket so its gonna leak most likely if you try to reuse it. I dont know of anyone that has reused a base gasket sucessfully. Its not anything I would ever do thats for sure.

As for new rings. well its gonna be open so what the heck is my approach when I do an engine. And for setting the jugs back on. All you need is some pop sickle stick to press the rings in and you tap the jugs back down. I dont have any pics stored, but someone surely does of the piston setting on wood to stabilise them when setting the jugs back on.

Small strips of wood on each side of the pistons laying across the holes in the lower cases. Turn the crank till all 4 pistons setting on the sticks and then you get the jugs on. Wiggle the crank a little to remove the sticks and finish setting the jugs down. Put on the head gasket and heads and start buttoning it up.

[chuck hahn]

Service manuals..

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1100G-L-K_Manual.pdf

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Suzuki_GS1100G_Service_Manual.pdf

[Chopperjake]

pulled the jugs

Ok, sounds reasonable. Guess I'm all the way in there, so I pulled the jugs. Little bit of carbon in there, but I don't see any damage to the dome of the piston. Not sure what the "skirt" is? See pics...... Cylinders themselves look pretty good to me.









So I was gonna get a new base gasket (any certain kind better than others?) and start re-assembly.

ps - I do feel in over my head, but so far everything has been moving forward fine.

[habsdoc]

You should really have cleaned up your engine before you started to take it apart. All that sand a debris is not good for your engine internals.

[Steve]

It has been mentioned before, I will repeat it now, ... OEM gaskets are best.

You were going to re-use the head gasket because it looked good? Any further suggestions will hereby be withheld, as re-using a head gasket is just ludicrous.

Don't forget to check your valve clearances when it all gets together.

.

[Chopperjake]

Thanks for the tips Steve.

That's why I'm asking. If OEM is best, then that's what I'll do. New head gasket too. I was trying not to sink more cash than necessary into this money pit, but I don't want an oil-leaking money pit either.

How do I know if it's OEM part? Just make sure to order from Z1 instead of ebay or whatever?

[chuck hahn]

Once a critical gasket such as a base or head gasket have been compressed under 30 FT LBS or pressure they are done. They are as squished as they can ever get and make a seal.

As for saving money.....you are by doing it right the first time. The gaskets are gonna be a one time expense if done right VS. say another tear down and more money for more gaskets when its leaking oil from every crack. Its all about how youre looking at the END results.

Take your time and go step by step in the manual and youll do fine.

[chuck hahn]

Order from Z1 or from Parts Outlaw is what most of us do. Heres the parts fiches for your bike. The pistons look fine. I was concerned that if the valves slammed too hard and rocked the pistons some skirt or bore damage could have been done...gladly it doesnt look so.

http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/#/l/suz/50d4045df8700230d8b4ed69/1982-gs1100gk-parts

[Chopperjake]

Thanks for all the help Chuck. Glad my pistons look good.

Steve, I ordered new OEM gaskets all around.

Habsdoc - I cleaned all the goop off the engine.

Here's a pic of the bent valve



I wasn't quite sure where the bend would be. I guess I thought there would be a kink in the middle of the shaft, but it's more like the "hat" is just off a little bit. You can see the stem leaning about like the Tower of Pisa.

Got a whole new (used) top end in the mail today. I'm going to pretend the valves are good, do the leak test, and re-assemble and then check clearances and compression. I've already got a fair amount of pictures of the tear-down and I'll take some more of the rebuild. My final plan is to try to put together a quality "how-to" ala BikeCliff and either post it up here on thegsresources.com or bikecliff's website.

[Chopperjake]

Here's the same valve twisted 180 degrees and now you can see it "lean" the other way.

[Steve]

Got a whole new (used) top end in the mail today. I'm going to pretend the valves are good, do the leak test, and re-assemble and then check clearances and compression.

Do yourself a BIG favor.

You are going to have the top end off, your "new" head is of questionable (uncertain) quality. Take a few moments and install the valve seals that will be included in your full gasket kit. Yeah, OK, that "few moments" will likely be a couple of hours, but think of how much time, effort and money will be involved if you get everything together and THEN find out the valve seals leak.

.