1979 gs850 warming up tips?

[1074cm3]

Hey kids, see that thing on the side? It's called a kickstarter. The way things should be.

[tkent02]

I'm trying to upload more pics, but somehow the uploader gives me an error.
Anyway, the seat is not original, the PO made it to have a more comfortable ride (he likes to travel around with his wife on he back, cool dude). I will be changing it to something with a little more style. I work for a workout machine manufacturer so I have access to really nice foam and tools for that.

Also, I jumped onto the freeway last night. It was my first time and I knew it was gonna be empty. I got it to 60mph and didn't want to push it. Rides much better than I thought! Warming up is not bad, I have to use full choke at first and let it rev by itself kinda on the high side around 2,500rpm's, then start playing with the choke til it can idle without it... I hear a couple of backfires from time to time... but that goes away once I jump on it. takes around 2 mins to rev by itself and then its ready to go.

Also, any thoughts about the new tires? anyone can tell me the proper size for the front and rear on this 1979 gs850? I believe is 100/90-19 for the front and 120/90-17 for the back? if I'm right, there is not much out there for this size on the rear tire... but hope I'm wrong. I would love to go with a vintage look. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

In warm weather it shouldn't take much choke at all, the fact that it does indicates it is way too lean. This will burn things up inside. Valves maybe or hole a piston. For instance, I use about 1/3 choke, it fires immediately, within ten seconds or so it will run OK with no choke at all. This in warm summer weather. In cold weather it takes a little more, but wouldn't need full choke until it's far below freezing temperatures.
Having to use full choke in warm weather is bad. Fix your carburetors.

Tires, there is nothing that looks vintage that rides worth a damn. You can have any two, long life, traction and handling, or low cost. There are great cheap tires that don't last very long, great for handling that hold up a while but cost a lot, or cheepos that last forever but ride like crap the whole time. We have favorites for whatever you decide.
Also decide what you use it for, highways, windy canyon roads, some gravel roads, rain or dry, or whatever.

[nicogarceron]

In warm weather it shouldn't take much choke at all, the fact that it does indicates it is way too lean. This will burn things up inside. Valves maybe or hole a piston. For instance, I use about 1/3 choke, it fires immediately, within ten seconds or so it will run OK with no choke at all. This in warm summer weather. In cold weather it takes a little more, but wouldn't need full choke until it's far below freezing temperatures.
Having to use full choke in warm weather is bad. Fix your carburetors.

Tires, there is nothing that looks vintage that rides worth a damn. You can have any two, long life, traction and handling, or low cost. There are great cheap tires that don't last very long, great for handling that hold up a while but cost a lot, or cheepos that last forever but ride like crap the whole time. We have favorites for whatever you decide.
Also decide what you use it for, highways, windy canyon roads, some gravel roads, rain or dry, or whatever.

Thanks Tkent02. So what do you use? I've tried to find Dunlop k70, but they don't do it for my rear tire size . I feel my options are quite limited cause of my rear tire size... What's an affordable good option?
And also, where's a good resource of DIY for the GS's?

[tkent02]

Cheap and sticky, not last very long, Shinko Tour Master 230. Really sticky, higher price, Pirelli Sport Demons. Last longer, not quite as expensive, Avon RoadRider. Not RoadRunner, they suck. Hard slippery last a long time? I don't know, I don't go there.

What do you mean, good resource of DIY?

[Steve]

Change your rear tire to the proper size, your selection will improve drastically. 130/90-17 is what should be on there.

.

[nicogarceron]

Thanks everyone for the input. I thought 120/90-17 was the right size for the gs850G... now I'll go and check my options again.

BTW, I've finally found what most people are talking about here, http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/.

stupid question coming up, I know, and I'll probably keep doing it till someone kick me out of the forum . but here I go: I'm on the lazy period of the year, so do I really need to take the 4 exhaust pipes out in order to remove the rear tire?? I know the answer is YES, but still...

[Steve]

stupid question coming up, I know, and I'll probably keep doing it till someone kick me out of the forum . but here I go: I'm on the lazy period of the year, so do I really need to take the 4 exhaust pipes out in order to remove the rear tire?? I know the answer is YES, but still...

Unless you have some sort of custom exhaust setup, you don't usually have to touch anything on the exhaust system to change the rear tire.

The only place there are "4 exhaust pipes" is at the front of the engine, which is nowhere near the rear tire.

.

[nicogarceron]

Unless you have some sort of custom exhaust setup, you don't usually have to touch anything on the exhaust system to change the rear tire.

The only place there are "4 exhaust pipes" is at the front of the engine, which is nowhere near the rear tire.

.

excuse my poor english. I speak Spanish much better!. What I meant to say is that, the two exhaust are side by side of my rear tire.

It looks like I don't have room to take the tire out if I don't remove them... Am I missing something here?

[JTGS850GL]

While on the center stand, you can remove the shocks from the shock mounts and move the rear swing arm above or below the pipes. That will allow you to remove the axle. The only part that might give you a little thought will be clearing the rear fender when pulling the wheel out. Not that tough a job. Just had to replace my front tire on my GS1000 due to dry rot. Tire came with the bike and I finally got around to replacing it. I ended up purchasing a Shinko Tour master 230. Now my front and rear tires match. As Steve indicated, the 130/90-17 rear tire is the correct size.

[Steve]

Put the bike on the centerstand, put a length of 2 x 4 under the legs of the centerstand. With help from a friend, tilt the bike to the right side first, slide one end of the board under the left side of the stand. Now tilt the bike to the left and kick the board under the right side. If you remove the tops of the shocks, the wheel will drop so the axle is lower than the mufflers. Raising the bike with the board under the stand will give you just enough room to roll the wheel out under the fender.

.

[nicogarceron]

ok, thanks for the great tips! The shinko tour master 230 is on its way.

Btw, The motorcycle idles higher than it should, but only after riding it for a long time on heavy traffic, and lots of stop and goes. (I live in LA ). Some times it doesn't do it. I tried to go to neutral, and then it's worst, the rpms go up... so having to switch to first gear it's a pain cause of the high revs...
I'll be taking the carbs out to clean them asap, but I also read on bike's cliff website that the problem could be the intake boot O-ring.
Any thoughts?

2nd: about going to neutral, It just won't go. I have to turn off the engine, then go to second and tap it down to get into neutral... but can't do it with the engine running...

Also, I'm really worried about these Air cooled engines running too hot... should I?? I am worried cause I'm used to cars being cooled by water, so if they are running hot you know it need water or something on the system is not working... but on this machine... it feels you don't have a way to prevent the overheating

Again, thanks a lot for all the help so far

[tkent02]

ok, thanks for the great tips! The shinko tour master 230 is on its way.

You did get two of them, right?

Btw, The motorcycle idles higher than it should, but only after riding it for a long time on heavy traffic, and lots of stop and goes. (I live in LA ). Some times it doesn't do it.
I'll be taking the carbs out to clean them asap, but I also read on bike's cliff website that the problem could be the intake boot O-ring.
Any thoughts?

Could be part of it, your O rings are old, replace them whether they need it or not, they are nearly free. There is probably something not quite right in the carburetors, too.

2nd: about going to neutral, It just won't go. I have to turn off the engine, then go to second and tap it down to get into neutral... but can't do it with the engine running...

Your clutch needs maintenance too. And the neutral stopper probably needs a better spring.

Also, I'm really worried about these Air cooled engines running too hot... should I?? I am worried cause I'm used to cars being cooled by water, so if they are running hot you know it need water or something on the system is not working... but on this machine...

Any airflow at all and it stays cool enough. There are more than enough cooling fins for any normal riding conditions if the engine is running properly. Even in the desert, even in summer, even on a really hot day. If you are caught stopped in traffic with no airflow on a hot day for longer than a few minutes shut it off.

If your engine is running lean you can burn it up even on a cool day. Likewise if your valve clearances have not been checked.