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New Bars, Long Cables

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    New Bars, Long Cables

    Hi, I just installed drag bars to my 1980 GS850G and although it was a tight fit, it seems to work except my throttle runs at really high rpm's when I start the bike. Does anyone know how to correct this problem? I also noticed my clutch is stiffer which I believe is caused by me tucking the cables in and down so they fit. Do have to install shorter cables? Thanks in advance for your help!

    #2
    It really depends on the bars you are installing. To go from an L style (buckhorn) bars to a lower set of bars you can usually get by with rerouting the cables. To go from a sport bike setup where the controls are essentially attached to the top of the forks to daytona style you usually have to use longer cables/brake lines as well as bar risers to mount the bars.

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      #3
      So are you saying I have reroute my cables? This would make sense I guess because of the pressure on them from being tucked in behind the headlight?

      Originally posted by almarconi View Post
      It really depends on the bars you are installing. To go from an L style (buckhorn) bars to a lower set of bars you can usually get by with rerouting the cables. To go from a sport bike setup where the controls are essentially attached to the top of the forks to daytona style you usually have to use longer cables/brake lines as well as bar risers to mount the bars.

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        #4
        Originally posted by dbraz7 View Post
        So are you saying I have reroute my cables? This would make sense I guess because of the pressure on them from being tucked in behind the headlight?
        I would say you need much shorter cables now. Tucking them up and or rerouting them isn't going to solve anything, might just make matters worse. You still have that extra length you don't need and find a route that won't bind them up is going to be difficult.
        sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
        1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
        2015 CAN AM RTS


        Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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          #5
          Rerouting the cables won't cost you anything. Give it a try before spending money on new cables. I changed the bars on the GS and KZ from a buck horn style to standard bars and didn't need to change cables. When I installed daytona bars on the RF, I used bandit 1200 risers and only needed a slightly longer brake line from the master cylinder.

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