Neighbor has offered use of his Lincoln ARC welder for doing any aluminum work if I should need it. Has anyone here used ARC welding on aluminum pieces such as a case cover or the cases themselves?? I know it has to be super clean and all that jazz. just wondering how it does and what rods you guys like.
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DC ARC welding aluminum
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DC ARC welding aluminum
Guess this qualifies as a GENERAL / MAINTENANCE section topic....
Neighbor has offered use of his Lincoln ARC welder for doing any aluminum work if I should need it. Has anyone here used ARC welding on aluminum pieces such as a case cover or the cases themselves?? I know it has to be super clean and all that jazz. just wondering how it does and what rods you guys like.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Tags: None
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ARC welding uses rods that have the shielding coating...same as steel rods do. I posed the question to see if anyone has used this and if its worth me investing in rods before I go spending the money on some.
Last edited by chuck hahn; 10-13-2015, 10:42 AM.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Use DC+ polarity and you'll need to run the amps a little higher then you would with steel. Aluminum dissipates heat much faster and acts like a heat sink pulling heat away from the weld area. Here are some good welding rods I've used in the past:
Zena Aluminum Welding rods
DC ARC welding is not best at doing anything aluminum less then 1/8" thick. Hope your neighbor is a good welder.http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
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It's worked for me in the past. Not sure if it's considered the best. I'm sure others with more recent experience will chime in.
Now using MIG and gas. Practice with aluminum is critical. I need to practice up each time I work with it since I don't do it that often.http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
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All I have for a MIG is a little 110V buzz box. To much to buy the spool kit and new liner for how often I would actually need to weld anything aluminum. Neighbor mentioned his so I figured make some enquiries into the DC rods.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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madmikeracing
I think a TIG is the way to go. I would get a 170 amp min. for aluminumn. i bought a miller 100 amp and am considering heavier for aluminumn drawa the amps, I am NOT a welder but have friends that are nuclear certed, Man can they weld a bead!! I am still trying to get the tig I bought to do aluminumn nicely but im a hack. Later Mike (Dont have the time to spend on it too many gs bikes to fix!)
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostThe part I don't like about welding aluminum is when the whole thing melts and collapses into a puddle between your boots.
My old Dad used to weld aluminium with his oxy-acetelene and he did it beautifully, he said that the trick was to clean the job perfectly and weld straight away, (Ally rods and flux as usual) because even touching it would be enough to form a layer in which the metal was melted inside a sack/bag and then it blobs out when you try to weld it. Just as you describe. He always had a lot of wire wool and scotchbrite about when he did those jobs.
I was shown this link by a friend that bought some of this stuff, he hasn't used it yet but we're all keen to see the results.
sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostThe part I don't like about welding aluminum is when the whole thing melts and collapses into a puddle between your boots.
I asked in a place where welders lurked, who was the best alloy welder in there. "Him there - he's an ally welding god", said one.
I handed the cracked oil filter housing to this bloke and watched as he totally ruined it with his oxy-ace torch, melting it on his bench.
I could have done better myself.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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Originally posted by Grimly View PostThat, too.I asked in a place where welders lurked, who was the best alloy welder in there. "Him there - he's an ally welding god", said one.
I handed the cracked oil filter housing to this bloke and watched as he totally ruined it with his oxy-ace torch, melting it on his bench.
I could have done better myself.Last edited by bonanzadave; 10-21-2015, 10:35 PM.82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
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Yeah, TIG is something I'd like to get the kit for and have a go at - the kit itself isn't all that much of an outlay nowadays, but the upkeep of pure argon gas and rental agreement on the bottle is something I can't justify for something I'd use twice a year, if that. Same applies to MIG and ally - the unused bottle ticking over on rental contract for no purpose. So, if I do start sticking bits of ally together it will likely be with the zinc-based solder sticks and see how it goes.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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Originally posted by Grimly View PostYeah, TIG is something I'd like to get the kit for and have a go at - the kit itself isn't all that much of an outlay nowadays, but the upkeep of pure argon gas and rental agreement on the bottle is something I can't justify for something I'd use twice a year, if that. Same applies to MIG and ally - the unused bottle ticking over on rental contract for no purpose. So, if I do start sticking bits of ally together it will likely be with the zinc-based solder sticks and see how it goes.
I use the gas infrequently but it is just so handy having it there, My supplier delivers and collects. I use 'cougar' for the mig with the same snap connectors so that it also can be used on the tig.sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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Originally posted by tatu View Postbut there is an alternative which is as good, I forget what its called.
Also propane will work, if you are to braze solder.
For that I would recommend to flux the part/s
Sorry, no help for the OP and is question (although I deem it not worth the hassle, even if it were free).Last edited by Lorenzo; 10-22-2015, 10:03 AM.
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