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    Where to start, and a few general questions

    First of all let me once again say thank you to everyone who has helped me so far in my restoration! (I began with only a general knowledge of automotive repair having worked briefly in a garage and years doing some basic work on my family's cars)

    A special shout-out to "posplayr" for welcoming my direct messages and noobyness in diagnosing my charging system. After more hours of research and testing than I'd care to admit, I have found a bad stator. However, in the process I found some awfully corroded grounds and connections which were more than happy to submit to a light sanding.

    However, I have been able to ride successfully with a freshly charged battery. I am aware I am probably doing damage to the battery by riding it without the stator recharging it. Whatever, the cost of a new battery is worth the riding pleasure to me. Havent ridden in 5+ years and its just too damn fun.

    So, in my riding I've noticed a few things that may or may not be a problem. I used to ride my dad's 2001 Honda Shadow 500 that ran like a dream, was kept well, and had a lot more low-end torque. So basically I have no frame of reference to certain things.

    First, I noticed that at 50-55mph, I was around 5000 RPMs, which seemed high for 6th gear. Since my "L" model looks somewhat like a cruiser (for now hehe) I assumed it would rev and sound like a cruiser (noob alert). Now, I see the redline is 9500 or so, and I read on another forum that this is pretty normal for these bikes. But I figured I'd ask you experts before I started to worry about it. I still get power I'd expect at that gear and speed, it just sounds like a sportbike and initially I was alarmed.

    Second, when I first start the bike (on full choke as it is chilly these days), it starts right up 9/10 times. Occasionally it has taken 2 or 3 tries. I dont hold it for more three seconds when I attempt (not trying to burn my starter out!). However after about 20-30 seconds of idling on choke, it suddenly increases RPMS to the top! I immediately then bring the choke down to halfway and it idles as it should and in another 30 seconds or so I can take the choke off and it idles right where it's supposed to at 1500rpms nice and smoothlike. Now, I can rule out a few things as this is probably a vacuum issue judging from similar threads I've already read through....

    Intake boots are brand new, as are the o-rings. They were mounted with indian head gasket sealer.
    Airbox boots were still nice and fresh somehow, but I bought new clamps to make sure they sat nice and tight.
    Carbs are beautiful inside. The PO was a godsend in only this department. When I first bought the bike, this is the first thing I went to do as recommended by you people in the top 10 newb mistakes thread. But everything inside was newly rebuilt! I sighed a breath of relief and cracked a celebratory Yeungling.
    Idle screw adjustment - I had to play around with this for awhile when I first got the bike running, As it liked to die out when taken off choke. Eventually I found the sweet spot.

    Third, the tachometer is sluggish. It does not respond in time and during the first 10 minutes it barely responds at all. I've notice it's become more responsive the more I run and drive the bike. I think it just needs to be lubricated. Where do I begin here?

    The second issue (sudden high RPMS) is the only thing at the moment that I feel warrants serious concern, despite the bike running nicely after it's warmed up. I noticed that there is an upper mounting screw for the air filter....but nothing for the bottom. Or am I wrong and missing a part? I took a look at the schematic diagram and that doesn't seem to be the case. Is this just terrible engineering? My thinking is that there is probably a gap near the bottom of the airbox which is causing this sudden increase when the air gets suddenly pulled through there. What should I check first to diagnose this other than the aforementioned previously checked or replaced items?

    #2
    "The PO was a godsend in only this department. When I first bought the bike, this is the first thing I went to do as recommended by you people in the top 10 newb mistakes thread. But everything inside was newly rebuilt! I sighed a breath of relief"

    They can look clean, but who knows if PO did it right, so be leery. Maybe he got creative and changed jetting.As to air filter , someone with same model will tell you how it fastens but understand that these carbs like a tight airbox/ filter setup to run properly above idle.
    These critters need to rev high to pump out power ,so don't compare it to the Shadow.
    Fix your charging system- $60 gets you new stator, $80 gets you decent series r/r; then you can ride bike for more than 45 minutes to get it nice and toasty and even more "responsive" .
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
      "The PO was a godsend in only this department. When I first bought the bike, this is the first thing I went to do as recommended by you people in the top 10 newb mistakes thread. But everything inside was newly rebuilt! I sighed a breath of relief"

      They can look clean, but who knows if PO did it right, so be leery. Maybe he got creative and changed jetting.As to air filter , someone with same model will tell you how it fastens but understand that these carbs like a tight airbox/ filter setup to run properly above idle.
      These critters need to rev high to pump out power ,so don't compare it to the Shadow.
      Fix your charging system- $60 gets you new stator, $80 gets you decent series r/r; then you can ride bike for more than 45 minutes to get it nice and toasty and even more "responsive" .
      Should have mentioned that I already have a new RR installed, and the stator gets here today! (mailman willing). Can't tell you how giddy I am to get it on.

      But I suppose you're right, I should go over the carbs in detail to make sure all the pilot screws, etc etc are set right as well as jet size. I doubt he did anything to alter them, but he couldnt even tell me if the tires were tubed or tubless so you're right I can't go on anything he said or did. But at least I dont have to clean them!

      If anyone knows more about properly installing the air filter definitely would like to know as this is the only part of the vacuum intake system that baffles me. Everything else is tight as allgetout

      Comment


        #4
        From the July, 1982 Cycle World review of my bike (1100e):

        "The engine starts immediately on full choke and then goes to about 4500-rpm-and-climbing unless the choke is quickly backed off..."
        1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

        2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

        Comment


          #5
          The idle will jump because the cylinder is starting to get a little heat built up which helps the gas vaporise easier. And the carbs arent all perfect and it may take a second for one or two to catch up. Do a good gauge syncing if you hadnt already.

          If the bike sets a few days the fuel does evaporate out the vents so you may have to set the petcock to PRIme a few seconds before going for a start to be sure the bowls are full.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            The GS550 motor makes peak torque at 7500 RPM and max hp at 9000 RPM. It's not a "cruiser" motor.

            The 5000 RPM at 50 mph is geared for the motor. Once its properly tuned this motor is very smooth at those speeds and you don't feel much vibration. Also mpg seems to be fine at 6000-7000 RPM which is where the motor was designed to cruise on the highway. Then again I weight 230 lbs. A lighter person may get away with taller gearing. You can experiment by dropping teeth on the rear sprocket.

            The one part of the L series which I could't accept were the buckhorn handlebars. They put my wrists at an angle which hurt after a while. I replaced them with Daytona style bars. This required that I replace some cables but it was worth it.

            The airbox only has an upper mounting screw for the air filter. Now lower mounting screw. Just a tab.
            Last edited by DimitriT; 11-14-2015, 10:40 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by DimitriT View Post
              The GS550 motor makes peak torque at 7500 RPM and max hp at 9000 RPM. It's not a "cruiser" motor.

              The 5000 RPM at 50 mph is geared for the motor. Once its properly tuned this motor is very smooth at those speeds and you don't feel much vibration. Also mpg seems to be fine at 6000-7000 RPM which is where the motor was designed to cruise on the highway. Then again I weight 230 lbs. A lighter person may get away with taller gearing. You can experiment by dropping teeth on the rear sprocket.

              The one part of the L series which I could't accept were the buckhorn handlebars. They put my wrists at an angle which hurt after a while. I replaced them with Daytona style bars. This required that I replace some cables but it was worth it.

              The airbox only has an upper mounting screw for the air filter. Now lower mounting screw. Just a tab.
              Yeah I can't stand the handlebars either. The seat is not and wasn't a leaned back position so the bars hence feel strange. I did the cliche noob thing and got clubmans. However, I prefer a forward stance as I feel I have more control of the bike with my weight sitting closer to the motor.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                The idle will jump because the cylinder is starting to get a little heat built up which helps the gas vaporise easier. And the carbs arent all perfect and it may take a second for one or two to catch up. Do a good gauge syncing if you hadnt already.

                If the bike sets a few days the fuel does evaporate out the vents so you may have to set the petcock to PRIme a few seconds before going for a start to be sure the bowls are full.
                Okay, awesome. I was going to vacuum sync the carbs soon anyway!

                Comment

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