Bike Dies while crusing, then eventually runs again

[jsandidge]

What you've been adjusting is the idle adjustment screw, not a mix screw. There is only 1 idle adjustment screw, while there are mix screws on each carb. You should also get rid of an in-line fuel filter if you have one. These bikes didn't come with them from the factory, as they have a screen in the petcock and individual screens in the fuel inlet of each carb. Generally, those in-line filters are too restrictive and cause fuel delivery issues.

[Nessism]

Still sound like tight valves?

Not really. More like a bike that needs maintenance. Check my signature for the Newbie Mistakes thread. It will help guide you.

[JerbGas]

What you've been adjusting is the idle adjustment screw, not a mix screw. There is only 1 idle adjustment screw, while there are mix screws on each carb. You should also get rid of an in-line fuel filter if you have one. These bikes didn't come with them from the factory, as they have a screen in the petcock and individual screens in the fuel inlet of each carb. Generally, those in-line filters are too restrictive and cause fuel delivery issues.

dont have a in line filter like that. and okay, i thought i was adjusting the mix...what does the idle adjustment change then?

I guess I should take a look at the actual mix screws

[JerbGas]

Not really. More like a bike that needs maintenance. Check my signature for the Newbie Mistakes thread. It will help guide you.

I've read it...many times hahaha. And I've already done a lot to the bike. AND it WAS running fine before...the issue just gets gradually worse. Well, back to the drawing board hahaha.

[jsandidge]

i thought i was adjusting the mix...what does the idle adjustment change then?

It opens or closes the butterflies on all 4 carbs at the same time. They are all linked together. This will let more or less fuel and air into the cylinders. This has the same effect as twisting the throttle. Doesn't affect the ratio of air to fuel at all.

[JJ]

I've read it...many times hahaha. And I've already done a lot to the bike. AND it WAS running fine before...the issue just gets gradually worse. Well, back to the drawing board hahaha.

It sure doesn't sound like you have read it. If you have, you didn't comprehend it very well.

The idle adjustment adjusts the.... IDLE.

The mixture screws adjust the... MIXTURE.

You have years of maintenance to catch up on. Winter is a great time to do it.

It sounds to me like you need to clean the carbs... spotlessly. Disassemble completely... strip and dip, or ultrasonic clean. Make sure all openings in the bodies and jets are clear. Replace old O-rings, both in the carbs and the manifold/head interface, if applicable. Don't take shortcuts. That will just make it necessary to perform it again correctly.

A valve check/adjustment should be your first step.

[JerbGas]

"1A) (NEW) Trying to diagnose running problems on a bike with an unknown maintenance history is an exercise in futility until a baseline is established through proper maintenance. Things like clean carbs, properly adjusted valves, sealed intake system (airbox, carb boots), a clean gas tank (no rust), and a properly functioning petcock are 100% mandatory for the bike to run properly. It's best to perform all the bikes maintenance when you first get the bike, and then if problems show up you will know what the problem is not."

THIS IS THE BANE OF MY EXISTENCE.

I will however, list what I have already done to give a better idea of what it's probably not.

-New intake manifold boots, with new o-rings, clamps and sealed properly with indianhead gasket sealer
-New airbox clamps
-New Fuel line
-New Battery
-New Stator
-New RR
-Sanded electrical contacts and regrounded grounds
-Inspected fuel filter and petcock, filter is new looking, petcock functions as it is supposed to
-Changed oil and filter
-Dumped out old gas
-New spark plugs (however they do show a lean condition)
-Tested vacuum seals with WD-40. Does not appear to be an air leak

Carbs APPEAR to have been rebuilt. The first thing I did when i purchased the bike was to go about a carb cleaning, but when i started taking it apart, all of the internal parts were spotless and appeared to be brand new.

Personally, I think PART of the problem could be that when the PO rebuilt them, he did not properly back out the mix screws on each carb correctly and that has led to other issues with the valves and or sparks plugs as they show a lean condition. However it is also cold as balls here in PA and I've heard colder air makes bikes run leaner if they have carbs. So being a noob, it has me confused.

I have read the newbie mistakes...but the bike was running fine before after the above work was done. And my motto is if it aint broke dont fix it. So hence why I felt the valves wouldn't need to be touched until something sounded wrong. But upon further reading I discovered valve adjustments are like oil changes so I'm a bit of a dumbass for not doing that sooner. Someone on reddit said I just need to change the spark plugs. But since I just replaced them that wouldn't solve the root issue. If they're not performing like they should so soon, something else is amiss.

[chuck hahn]

Fuel line straight and vacuum to petcock straight and not kinked up?? If the tanks clean and the petcock filter is in good shape theres no need for an inline filter. They actually slow fuel flow and cause wierd schit to happen.

[JerbGas]

Fuel line straight and vacuum to petcock straight and not kinked up?? If the tanks clean and the petcock filter is in good shape theres no need for an inline filter. They actually slow fuel flow and cause wierd schit to happen.

Yup, the distance is very short too. Fuel line is new, vacuum line is old.

[JerbGas]

Fuel line straight and vacuum to petcock straight and not kinked up?? If the tanks clean and the petcock filter is in good shape theres no need for an inline filter. They actually slow fuel flow and cause wierd schit to happen.

With that in mind I think tonight I'll try putting a new vacuum line on the petcock and see if it behaves differently. That could be a 30 year old hose and while it may look fine, it may not be.

[JerbGas]

changed the vacuum line and there was no change. Wasn't a complete waste of time though as I now have a new vacuum line and I noticed the middle two air intake boots appear to have backed out some. Perhaps not enough to cause an air leak...but probably. Gonna go reseat them and see if there's any change.

[cowboyup3371]

Why and what did you put gasket sealer on? You don't need anything like that anywhere.

Please strip and dip your carbs. Just because the outside "looks" nice doesn't mean the insides are right since passages you can't see can be blocked.

[JerbGas]

Why and what did you put gasket sealer on? You don't need anything like that anywhere.

Please strip and dip your carbs. Just because the outside "looks" nice doesn't mean the insides are right since passages you can't see can be blocked.

I put gasket sealer where the intake boots mount on the engine. Only a thin layer. Was recommended for a longer lasting seal by someone who had done it many times.
As far as the carbs, I was referencing the inside. Actually, the outside is fairly dirty.

[cowboyup3371]

You will have lost any good sealing ability with the sealer on the boots. I was also referring to the inside as there are passages WITHIN the carb itself you cannot see

[JerbGas]

You will have lost any good sealing ability with the sealer on the boots. I was also referring to the inside as there are passages WITHIN the carb itself you cannot see

"you will have lost any good sealing ability with the sealer"

.....what.