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    Time to change brake fluid

    Cleaning up the brakes on my new to me 80 and 81 GS850. Just had a thought. If your brake fluid looks like Starbucks coffee, it's time to flush it out.....LOL

    #2
    If the fluid is brown you should be tearing down the caliper and master to clean out all the coagulated chunkies. Replace the brake line(s) at the same time since they have scale on the inside, plus Suzuki calls for replacing the lines every few years anyway.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      ..You mean THIS is bad ...?

      [IMG][/IMG]

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        #4
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        ...plus Suzuki calls for replacing the lines every few years anyway.
        Every two years (on my bike). I assume (hope) those of us who've switched to braided can go a few more.
        1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

        2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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          #5
          Yeah it was pretty dark colored.

          As for tearing it down, I was doing that when the thought occurred to me. I find that soaking the MC and calipers in vinegar cleans them up nicely although the calipers were not dirty and very little debris was found in the entire system. One thing I've learned is that there is no such thing as too clean when it comes to brakes or carbs. The rear MC on the 850L was locked up solid. I took it apart as far as I could get it and soaked overnight in vinegar. When I pulled it out of the vinegar this morning it took only a nudge to remove the innards and then a #80 drill bit for the spooge hole (return) and they look like new. I didn't dip them in Berrymans Chem-Dip because they are painted and I didn't want to contaminate the dip. Besides I've used vinegar in the past and it always seems to clean brake internals perfectly.

          The Suzuki FSM for the GS says replace lines every 2 years.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
            Every two years (on my bike). I assume (hope) those of us who've switched to braided can go a few more.
            They shouldn't have any rubber inside to deteriorate, I think they are good for a long time.
            http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

            Life is too short to ride an L.

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              #7
              I'm not sure what's more ridiculous, changing the lines every two years, or not changing the lines on a bike full of dark and nasty fluid.

              Just for kicks I split open an OEM brake line one time and it had a brown scale on the inside. One one of my first GS restores I left the old lines but flushed the fluid, only to find the line getting dirty right away.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                I have had old rubber lines get so bad they acted as one way check valves, the brakes could come on but could not release. Have also had brakes come on and lock a wheel without ever touching the brake due to rust particles blocking the return port.

                Brakes coming on unannounced and locking wheels out of the blue are not happy things on motorcycles.

                It's all easy to prevent, you just have to get in there and do it.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  That is part of my pre-spring ride maintenance ritual, brake fluid get flushed.
                  sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                  1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                  2015 CAN AM RTS


                  Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jdvorchak View Post
                    If your brake fluid looks like Starbucks coffee, it's time to flush it out.....LOL
                    You are close, here is the corrected version:
                    " If your brake fluid looks like Starbucks coffee, it's WAAAYYYY PAST time to flush it out."

                    New fluid is clear. As it absorbs moisture, it gets darker.
                    When it gets to the color of ginger ale, it's time to change it.
                    If it gets to the color of root beer, it's PAST time to change it.
                    By the time it looks like Starbucks coffee, it's WAY past time to change it.
                    I ride many bikes.
                    Some are even Suzukis. :D

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                      #11
                      My original post was more tongue in cheek than informative. Yeah these were long past due.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Once the brake fluid turns dark like that your caliper and lines lines look like these...



                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Caliper

                          I had a dirty caliper when my rebuild was done...



                          It cleaned up well...



                          Here's a cut of my old brake line:



                          Ed
                          Last edited by GSXR7ED; 01-06-2016, 01:02 AM.
                          GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
                          GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
                          GSX-R750Y (Sold)

                          my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

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                            #14
                            Thanks to Ed and Ed for the pics of the open brake lines.
                            Never seen that before and a great reminder that the entire system has to cleaned.
                            2@ \'78 GS1000

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Like I've said before there is no such thing as too clean when it comes to brakes or carbs. I even wash my hands before putting any of those components back together after cleaning. One more thing that has not been touched on is to use ONLY brake fluid for assembly lube on any brake component that will live in brake fluid. On floating calipers, like on the fronts, I use high temp lithium grease or ant-seize on the sliding pins and anti-seize on the mounting bolts. Oh and a torque wrench.

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