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What is the best motorcycle OILS ???
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35640
- Torrance, CA
Synthetic oils is not more "slippery", it's just more shear stable so it lasts a long time, and it's more temperature stable so if you overheat the engine while stuck in traffic the oil won't thin out as much as mineral oil. Good stuff.Ed
To measure is to know.
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1_v8_merc
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gearhead13
I like the idea of synthetic oil and how they dont break down as fast, but they come in thin viscosity like 5w or 0w and knowing how viscosity keeps moving parts away from each other makes me want to run at least a 10w oil, so I run 15w40 rotella dino oil.
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Not so sure it is the "viscosity" that keeps the moving parts away from each other, but whatever makes you happy.
The first number in the viscosity rating is the 'cold' number, and is an indication of how easily the oil flows when you first start the engine. My philosophy there is that thinner oil will flow through the small bearing clearances easier, which prevents the moving parts from touching each other. Higher-numbered viscosities might build better numbers on a meter, but that does not mean that oil is flowing through the bearings, only that there is a lot of pressure trying to get it through them.
Yeah, I use 5w-40 Rotella.
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This guy has an interesting take on it - select an oil which gives 10psi per 1000rpm for plain bearinged engines.
His reasoning is valid, imo, with regards to bearing flow and cooling. That dynamic wedge needs to be maintained, and a too-thick oil isn't doing as much good as you'd think.
There is one slight gotcha I've come across mentioned with synthetic oils in ball-bearinged engines - ball skid. I've been using synth for the past couple of years and can't say it's affected me, but the risk is small, I think.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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Originally posted by Grimly View Post
There is one slight gotcha - ball skid. can't say it's affected me, but the risk is small, I think.
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As I understand it, the perfect oil has 0 weight when cold. If 0w50 existed, it'd be the best 50 weight oil.
Generally speaking, you want the cold oil to flow as thin as possible, then thicken as it warms up. I'm pretty sure someone has marketed a 0w30 oil.Jordan
1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1973 BMW R75/5
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Originally posted by Grimly View PostThis guy has an interesting take on it - select an oil which gives 10psi per 1000rpm for plain bearinged engines.
His reasoning is valid, imo, with regards to bearing flow and cooling. That dynamic wedge needs to be maintained, and a too-thick oil isn't doing as much good as you'd think.
There is one slight gotcha I've come across mentioned with synthetic oils in ball-bearinged engines - ball skid. I've been using synth for the past couple of years and can't say it's affected me, but the risk is small, I think.
Very informative article.
It's not clear to me, though, why do Shell (as an example) insists on producing 15W motorcycle oil.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35640
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by Lorenzo View PostVery informative article.
It's not clear to me, though, why do Shell (as an example) insists on producing 15W motorcycle oil.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Yes Ed, it makes sense. More so in the second part of the designation (30-40-50) ie the hotter the higher;
Worth also pointing out that, the deductions, of the article apply mainly to water cooled engines, so for the rest of us not as prodigal as to sport a Maybach , an Enzo and a Lambo under the same roof ,
we should stick to the seasonal change of oil.
On the other hand I tought the proof of concept, was about the fact that a thinner oil is better altogether for when the fight between metals bearing and rubbing against each other, is at it' s summit ie at startup.Last edited by Lorenzo; 02-25-2016, 02:29 AM.
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