The fact that all 4 came out the same was good, but is 150psi to be expected? It seems low to me.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Compression test, GS1000G
Collapse
X
-
Compression test, GS1000G
Did compression tests on each cylinder today. Each one was more or less bang on 150psi (engine practically cold).
The fact that all 4 came out the same was good, but is 150psi to be expected? It seems low to me.Tags: None
-
It all depends on what it is supposed to be from the factory. For instance, mine are supposed to be 180, but all my reads were in the 170 or so range. They say that you shouldn't worry too much unless it is around 120 or less.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/...678005be58.jpg
1982 GS1100 G converted by Motorcyclist magazine in 1986 to be a tribute to the Wes Cooley replica. 1982 Honda 900F. 1997 Yamaha VMax.
Also owned: 1973 Kawasaki Z1 900, 1972 Honda 750 K, 1976 Yamaha XS 650, 1980 Kawasaki KZ 1000 MKII, 1978 Kawasaki SR 650. Current cage is a 2001 Mustang Bullitt in Dark Highland Green. Bought new in Sept. 2001.
-
Depends on too many factors for a number to mean anything, Cranking RPM, elevation, the gauge you used, did you open the throttle, how long you cranked it, engine and air temperature, are the valves adjusted correctly, cam timing, etc, etc, etc.
These are low compression engines anyway. 150 is very good, all cylinders the same is great, the big question is how does it run?
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35640
- Torrance, CA
150 psi is excellent. Make sure to adjust the valves and keep it that way.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
Comment
-
Jon
Thanks all - this looks like good news. The engine last ran (prior to the test) about 20 minutes prior, when I started and ran it until I could let it tick over with the choke off. Then let it cool down enough to do the comp. tests. Before that, last time it was run was about 3 months ago.
I held the throttle wide open, of course. I cranked it over until the needle stopped rising on each cylinder.
The gauge is fairly new (2 years old), a Draper, so decent make. We tried another much older one which gave similar results.
I'd say it runs well. My friend, who brought his old gauges and is a professional bike mechanic who really knows Japanese fours (I don't!), said he though it sounded really good. He put his vacuum gauges on the carbs and with a tiny bit of tweaking got them all dead-level with each other.
I should mention that we changed the petrol before we started in earnest. Our first attempt gave hesitant running, but the petrol was 6 months old. New gas transformed how it ran.
I should add that I have had the vlave clearances checked and adjusted - all are nicely within the range. The bike has done about 45000 kilometres, which is under 30000 miles, and it looks to have been very well looked after.
The two remaining problems I need to solve are (a) I need to fit slightly higher and wider handlebars, as the originals cause my knackered wrists to ache very quickly.
(b) the rear shock upper mounts have almost stripped threads (right hand one is worse, left side isn't too bad). The previous two owners kept chopping & changing rear carriers etc, I think this is how the thread came to be damaged. I need to figure out the cleverest fix possible, ie: minimal expensive work, but maximum effectiveness.
Any ideas welcome!Last edited by Guest; 02-17-2016, 05:51 PM.
Comment
-
jdvorchak
Extreme fix is to cut off the studs and drill a hole where the stud was. Insert new high grade bolt and nut.
Comment
Comment