Oil changes and winter storage

[Sandy]

Must be lucky, or maybe you actually maintain the bike once in a while. I've bought dozens of used GSes which were dead from being stored wrong, with carburetors clogged to the point of not running at all being by far the most common problem.

That I do. And yes previous owner stuff can be a nightmare. The 750ES I got after sitting for 17 years with a dry tank and carbs was fine except the bottom of the tank fell out 10 minutes after I put fuel in it. Turns out the tank was like swiss cheese from rust caused from the condensation and the only thing allowing it to briefly hold gas was the paint. I got it home, gave a few things a quick check, stuck in a battery and gas and it fired right up. Pretty good for sitting for 17 years, good thing I had it outside. Pity too, because the original paint on the tank was perfect.

[DohcBikes]

Dozens? Lol.

[tkent02]

Restored three, four, maybe five GSes a year for decades. A few other bikes too, but mostly dead GSes. It's kind of a hobby.

[Wingsconsin]

Like I said, if your petcock is perfect that works fine. If it leaks even a little bit I hope you enjoy the time spent cleaning carburetors.

This is one of the things that caused me troubles this year
Put the bike away with Stabil in the tank - thought all was well.
In spring the bike would not run correctly... Found a leaky petcock and replaced it.
Then eventually had the carbs re-done by Steve - now it runs perfectly when dry (new coils, wires and plug caps going on in spring)
I believe the petcock was leaking 1 drop at a time all winter - and then it would sit in the carbs and evaporate and leave the residue behind.
While the jets weren't completely closed off - they were gunked up and the bike did not run well.

Lesson learned - this weekend -
Carbs drained !
Fuel line OFF the tank!
Oil Changed!
Battery out and in basement on tender!
Fuel Tank stored FULL with stabilized gas!

[limeex2]

I always fill and stabil the tank and run the bike a bit to get it in the carbs. Sometimes I drain the carbs, sometimes I don't and never had a problem either way. As acids and other nasty crap can collect in the oil I change the oil in the fall but not again in the spring, don't see much sense in that. Batteries come into the house and go on a battery tender every once and awhile. I don't just leave them on the tender. Every few weeks I rotate the tender around the batteries, we're talking RV, lawn tractor, pickup truck and a couple of motorcycle batteries. The bikes, chain saws, lawnmower and other vehicles always start right up in the spring. Procedure for a bike is usually turn to prime and fill the carbs while installing the battery and start. If a bike didn't get ridden or summerized I'll drain the old gas into my work van and rewinterize as above. Been doing it for years and never had storage issues. Oh yeah, also make sure the bike is as clean as possible as dirt hiding out of site can attract moisture.

Correct! Change oil in the fall. Oil suspends contaminates and when left over winter this will settle into lower areas. On my last ride, I'll put stabilizer in before I go out,top off tank with non-oxy fuel, and enjoy my ride on my favorite roads. When I get home, put it on the center stand,drain the float bowls, change the oil, cover it up and go into mourning until spring. I rotate my battery tender between all bikes, changing its location every Sunday night. I know its anal but in the spring with our cold climates, keep that garage door closed. The warm spring weather will make your cold bikes sweat. That is where a lot of moisture comes from.

[nejeff]

This is one of the things that caused me troubles this year
Put the bike away with Stabil in the tank - thought all was well.
In spring the bike would not run correctly... Found a leaky petcock and replaced it.
Then eventually had the carbs re-done by Steve - now it runs perfectly when dry (new coils, wires and plug caps going on in spring)
I believe the petcock was leaking 1 drop at a time all winter - and then it would sit in the carbs and evaporate and leave the residue behind.
While the jets weren't completely closed off - they were gunked up and the bike did not run well.

Lesson learned - this weekend -
Carbs drained !
Fuel line OFF the tank!
Oil Changed!
Battery out and in basement on tender!
Fuel Tank stored FULL with stabilized gas!

The bike(s) I ride all winter I don't drain the bowls, the ones I don't I drain the bowls and leave the drain screws off. Not a bad idea to just take the tank off and set it aside.

Batteries inside but I don't tender them continuous

[radek22]

Thanks everyone, lots of useful info!

[Wingsconsin]

I store the tank FULL to prevent rust from forming inside the metal tank -
In spring I will pour the OLD Stabilized fuel into the car (fuel injected and diluted with another 13+ gallons of fuel) -
And get a fresh tank of new gas to start the year
That's my plan for the GS850GL

For the Goldwing --
Plastic fuel tank - stabilized fuel at whatever level it is at when I put it away (usually 3/4 +)
Plug in battery tender - throw cover over.
I already washed and waxed it -
Gotta change the oil this weekend -.
All the liquids were done in the past year (anti-freeze in radiator)
In Spring - turn key and start it . (Gotta love modern technology)

Another 2 days of good weather - then snow coming for the weekend possibly here in Wisconsin

[greg78gs750]

i agree with storing FULL, then draining the old gas and replacing with fresh in the spring. I haven't had good luck with "stabilized" gas. But many have.

[tom203]

Last few rides I run with the marine Stabil (blue) to work it into carbs. Run tank down to 1/4 full ,disconnect petcock line in case it fails. Over 5 months, the gas won't completely evaporate unless bike is stored in sun. In spring, add fresh fuel and off you go.

[DohcBikes]

Keep it full, start it and let it warm up every couple weeks. give it a rap or 2 on the throttle intermittently after warm to get the oil pressure up. Run it 5-10 minutes and shut it down.

Done.

[limeex2]

I store the tank FULL to prevent rust from forming inside the metal tank -
In spring I will pour the OLD Stabilized fuel into the car (fuel injected and diluted with another 13+ gallons of fuel) -
And get a fresh tank of new gas to start the year
That's my plan for the GS850GL

For the Goldwing --
Plastic fuel tank - stabilized fuel at whatever level it is at when I put it away (usually 3/4 +)
Plug in battery tender - throw cover over.
I already washed and waxed it -
Gotta change the oil this weekend -.
All the liquids were done in the past year (anti-freeze in radiator)
In Spring - turn key and start it . (Gotta love modern technology)

Another 2 days of good weather - then snow coming for the weekend possibly here in Wisconsin

Our fall up here has been unbelievable this year! Still riding and may be able to ride to Thanksgiving dinner.

[chuck hahn]

Starting for a few minutes every week or so doesnt allow the engine to come to full temp and evaporate any crankcase condensation. Short starts and stops....especially in cold weather with decent humidity will only add to crankcase condensation. But to each their own i guess Take all of 10 minutes and drain the bowls and dont be so darned lazy about it.

[chuck hahn]

Nebraska..leaving the drain plugs out also invites bugs to get in and build nests in there. If they are drained down and left a little loose is ok though. But generally any tiny residual will evap out the vents. Long as the jets and choke pickup tubes are subjected to gas that can coagulate and varnish it all up you should be good to go.

[DohcBikes]

Also from Nebraska. Sorry but there's a lot of people out there that don't ride their bikes long enough ever. Not a bit worried about crankcase condensation on a bike that runs 5-10 minutes every couple weeks. If you are worried about that then you are a very paranoid person. My current GS sat with the same oil in it for 8 years and the cranckase and everything inside looks new.