Seat lock failed

[roeme]

So, as if my bike didn't already have enough problems (some of which have been solved since), the seat lock gave up the ghost today.

Luckily, I was able to unlock the seat with the help of a screw driver, and get the lock out. Thanks to some other thread here on the GSR, I was able to confirm my hunch that this little metal thingie is a retainer, take it out and the lock comes apart:



I had a feeling that this is not a cause of a stuck lock, but something broke. Confirmed...



..and yep, missing on the cylinder:



How do I fix this best? From what I read on the other thread, it sounds like I could transfer the wafers to a new cylinder (I'd like to use the same key for tank, ignition and seat). Where to get one?

Alternatively, could I reattach that broken off pin/nub? Though I'm not sure if it would just break again later on.

[chuck hahn]

Is there enough meat to the cylinder that you could drill it a little and wedge a steel pin in the hole and grind to fit the housings specs???

[roeme]

Is there enough meat to the cylinder that you could drill it a little and wedge a steel pin in the hole and grind to fit the housings specs???

Good idea.



I think I'll explore this route. But a spare cylinder, I'd like to have as well, to be on the safe side

[jdvorchak]

I'd be tempted to buy a used cylinder or seat lock. As for the key, just take the new one apart so the "pins" are exposed. Like in the final pic you posted. Insert your original ignition key into the cylinder and file any/all of the pins flush with the cylinder housing. That would be a lot easier than disassembly and moving those tiny pins to your new housing.

[Kiwi Canuck]

It's possible to drill and tap for a small cap head screw, you will need to be very precise with your drilling & tapping.

A new seat lock is a good option, hopefully you can find one with a working key that can be tested to verify it's not broken before you buy it.

If you do go that route please don't just file the wafers as suggested above, that would allow any key to fit the lock, almost the same as removing them altogether.

Switch over the old wafers to the new cylinder plug, very easy to do or if for some reason they are unusable do the following.

Insert your key and see which wafers align with the key, remove the ones that don't and rearrange them to get the best fit.

There are only 4 depths, so hopefully you can get it close, I have adjusted wafers by filing the inside of the wafer to allow it to align with the top of the cylinder. (only possible to change a high wafer this way)

I believe the tutorial I did on this procedure is still posted somewhere on here. (I'll see if I can find it)


David.

[hillsy]

You already have the correct wafers so get another lock and swap them in.

[80GS850GBob]

You already have the correct wafers so get another lock and swap them in.

x2...search locally or ebay, find another assembly and swap guts. There should be an elongated cap on the other end where the shims and tabs come out...warning, be very careful removing them - I'd suggest the key be in when doing this to remove tension....your replacement assy may not have a key though. Those brass tabs and the little round shims must be kept in the correct order per notched section and in sequence for the length of the cylinder. If your not comfortable doing this swap, take new and old lock to a decent lock smith and for a minor fee they will swap them or revamp the new one to you old key.

[hillsy]

Also you need to check the latch mechanism for any seizing / binding - the tab snapped off your tumbler for a reason