Locating the rear wheel

[StratJeff]

That third piece from the left (silver)- that's #7 on the parts diagram, and lives inside the wheel hub, correct? The only thing visible from the left side of my wheel is the bearing #14, and my double-flanged spacer (2nd from left in your picture) fits snugly into this bearing. The right side is exactly as you have shown.

[StratJeff]

Probably not Cipher- the left pad isn't contacting the rotor at all, so there's plenty of room. The rotor is right up against the caliper itself.

[sharpy]

That third piece from the left (silver)- that's #7 on the parts diagram, and lives inside the wheel hub, correct? The only thing visible from the left side of my wheel is the bearing #14, and my double-flanged spacer (2nd from left in your picture) fits snugly into this bearing. The right side is exactly as you have shown.

That wheel hub as you say, the correct term is sprocket carrier. and yes that stepped spacer sits inside it and into the large bearing. The same area where you should be looking to see it those sprocket bolts have fallen out of the slot they sit in. Also push ure caliper pistons all the way back in. then mount the wheel them pump the brake pedal to get pressure again. Seems those outer pistons are holding the caliper to the right, causing friction.

[StratJeff]

Why do you keep asking about the sprocket bolts? They do naturally want to fall back in to the carrier, and I had to lean the wheel over and lightly tap to make sure they extended. Then I put the nuts on all 6 and torqued to spec- it was pretty simple.

I'll play around with the caliper pistons tomorrow, and see if the brake will "self-align" once it gets some pressure. Not sure though- the caliper is *really* pinching the rotor, there's no wiggle at all to it.

[StratJeff]

Playing with it more today- the pistons were definitely full out, it took a couple pumps to get them to squeeze.

I was able to get the tire rotating by hand, but as soon as I tightened the axle castle nut, the system locks up. I could keep it loose and cotter pin it, but I'm pretty sure that's not safe. I'll never be able to get to torque specs on it without locking up the wheel.

It looks like I need some additional spacer between the #5 and #17, to align the caliper slightly more to the right.

I'm missing some great riding weather

If anyone else with an -E could share some pictures of what theirs looks like fully assembled, that would be really helpful!

EDIT: I found these old pictures of another bike, and my setup is *exactly* the same (except I do have the caliper bracket in place): http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ght=rear+wheel

[Sandy]

The rear caliper is fixed in position by the caliper mount and doesn't float on pins like front ones. The wheels position is thus determined by the spacers which appear to be correct (ignore my previous post about them being wrong). It looks like the caliper mount has an offset and is positioning the caliper too far to the left. Is it possible the caliper mount somehow got reversed?

[StratJeff]

The caliper mount only fits one way- it has a curve to it, and the curve needs to extend outwards from the axle in order to fit the caliper holes. Flipping it would put the caliper even closer to the wheel.

[Sandy]

OK. I took some pictures of my GS1000. Note that the axle, wheel and all spacers except for the one between the caliper and the wheel are all the same part number as yours. Comparing your pics and mine it looks like the sprocket side spacer is correct but I question the spacer on the right between caliper mount and the wheel. Mine seems to sit recessed into the wheel much farther than yours. If that spacer on yours isn't correct the spacing for the caliper won't be correct. That spacer and the sprocket side spacer should fit right up against the inner bearing races on both sides. As mentioned the caliper position is fixed and the wheel position in relation to the caliper is determined by the spacers on the left side. This is all assuming the bearings are properly seated which they should be unless you've also had them out. Hope this helps.




by soates50, on Flickr

[StratJeff]

Thanks for the pictures- unfortunately that's *exactly* how I have mine setup right now, and the rotor still drags.

It looks like I need some additional spacer inside the caliper V mount, to move the caliper out about 2mm. There's no other way I can see to adjust that.

[hannibal]

This happened when I reinstalled the rear wheel on my 750. Can't remember if it was after doing tires or the 530 conversion. I'm racking my brain to remember how I fixed it, but I know I didn't add any spacers.

I'm gonna look thru some pics I took and see it that jogs my memory. If not, I hope looking at the actual bike this weekend will help me remember.

[Kiwi Canuck]

I had the same issue on my GS1000, turned out to be a sticking caliper piston, it would not return after being applied and caused the wheel to not want to turn freely.

I was changing wheels from one bike to another when it happened, but thought it was something I caused so took a while to figure it out.

Try it without brake pads and see if the rotor is running true in the center of the caliper.

David

[Cipher]

yes remove the caliper and tighten wheel
bottom out pistons into caliper
re install then depres pedal till thhey seat

[StratJeff]

The pistons don't appear to be the problem either. I pushed them open manually, but the rotor is still grabbing the caliper itself, not the pads. I've uploaded a video so you can see/hear it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4ZFyyYva3I

[storm 64]

Maybe your wheel bearings and inter spacer are bad. I'd take everything apart and inspect. Something don't look right...

[Sandy]

Maybe your wheel bearings and inter spacer are bad. I'd take everything apart and inspect. Something don't look right...

Yes, I second what Norm said because if things are assembled in the correct order it should fit properly (famous last words). The caliper is in a fixed position on the caliper mount and the wheel location is set by the spacers so there is no adjustment anywhere it simply should fit if all parts are assembled correctly. I appreciate your frustration with this. Maybe somebody with an 1100 can measure from the inside of the chain adjuster to the brake rotor or wheel, I can measure my 1000 as it has the same parts but an actual measurement from an 1100 would be more comforting.